A colour combination emblematic of the style of the Maison since the 1920s, Tutti Frutti brings the Udyana necklace alive.
Created in the High Jewellery ateliers of the Maison, this one-of-a-kind piece takes its name from the Sanskrit word for garden. It celebrates nature at its most luxuriant and colourful, through a profusion of motifs and precious stones including sapphires, rubies and engraved emeralds. For Cartier, the necklace not only represents a continuation of expertise, but also the Maison’s tradition for transformable jewellery that can be worn in multiple ways.
The Udyana Necklace and Its Exceptional Central Stone
The Udyana necklace forms a rich canopy of ribbed emerald balls studded with rubies and topped with an impressive 67.7-carat engraved ruby pendant from Mozambique.
In addition to its impressive weight, the stone is a fascinating pinkish red colour with a touch of orange. Its uniqueness lies in the hexagonal shape which provides an ideal space for the carved floral motif. This engraving is entirely carried out by hand, using a technique developed by the Mughals in the 17th century.
The choice of stones lies at the heart of the creative process for the Udyana necklace, as for every piece of Cartier high jewellery, in a tribute to their beauty, as well as to the beauty of nature.
When it comes to selecting coloured stones, a quest for excellence dictates Cartier’s choices each time. The jeweller is looking for an extra something that will allow for a dialogue between the stone and the creator. What story does it tell; where does it come from; what does this emerald cut into a ribbed ball, this sapphire or this flowered ruby evoke? The stones inspire Cartier, which in turn offers them an appropriate setting for their beauty.
Each of them must meet the highest standards of excellence and quality set by the Maison’s experts. It’s a duty and a responsibility, both social and environmental, pioneered by Cartier as an early adopter of responsible commitment in terms of sourcing coloured stones.
The Udyana Necklace: A Question of Savoir-Faire
Harmony of composition and the naturalness of the branches and buds was a priority for the workshops that created the Udyana necklace.
The challenge began with the design, and how to associate the cut and engraved stones.
Each stone then required a jeweller to make a bezel to size by hand, for insertion into the veins of the leaves.
The leaves themselves were linked by a tree of diamond-set stems, each of which is different, to maximise the naturalness of the whole.
Added to this jewellery prowess, is the complexity inherent in any transformable piece, designed to be worn in several different ways. A pendant to be worn alone, a brooch, and necklace all in one, the piece is designed to be changed as desired without any visible engineering, whilst the whole remains secure.
The pendant can be detached and fixed on a chain, while the main necklace can be worn as is, and the back pendant can be worn as a brooch.