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Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

With their elegant and refined design, these two Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater perpetual calendar – A perfect combination watches are the latest in a long line of exceptional achievements by the Manufacture. The purity of their design stems notably from a consummate and comprehensive mastery of ultra-thin movements.

A worthy descendant of historical fine watchmaking calibres

The Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar – A perfect combination models are equipped with a revisited movement, the 1731 QP calibre, which combines a minute repeater and perpetual calendar at the heart of an extremely slim white or pink gold case. For the watchmakers of the Maison, the challenge was to associate two of the most sophisticated complications within a movement measuring just 5.70 mm thick, while ensuring precision, reliability and user friendliness.

No fewer than 438 components, some measuring about a hair’s breadth, compose a true watchmaking alchemy within a mechanical manual-winding movement beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and driving the following functions – hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap-year indication, moon phase and minute repeater – while maintaining a 65-hour power reserve.

These new timepieces are the latest in a line of watches that have left an indelible imprint on their respective eras. In 1992, Vacheron Constantin presented reference 30020, an exceptional model repeating the hours, quarters and minutes while also endowed with a perpetual calendar. In 2013, the Maison launched the famous 1731 calibre, named in tribute to Jean-Marc Vacheron’s birth year: an extremely slim manual-winding minute repeater movement inspired by historical calibres.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Discreet complexity

The two Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar repeater timepieces combine a vision of complex watchmaking with an aesthetic pairing pure design with undeniable elegance. The calendar indications follow a classic layout with the indications of days, dates and month, positioned at the top of the dial adorned with a sunray guilloché motif. This perfectly legible display leaves all the space required for the golden dance of the moon standing out against a star-studded background. The leap year is discreetly indicated through an aperture, while the equally unobtrusive minute circle marks off the passing of time without disturbing the intuitive calendar reading. In the same spirit, the slender 42 mm case exudes an unassuming yet refined aura. Only the control system for the minute repeater function, on the left side, reflects the true complexity of these two pieces and testifies to their ability to sound the tempo on gongs. A degree of sophistication confirmed by a simple glance through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback offering admirable views of the mechanical subtleties of this watch that chimes the time.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

This one-of-a-kind model paying tribute to the grand tradition of “musical” watches by Vacheron Constantin, houses a grande and petite sonnerie movement with a minute repeater mechanism. The case honours the art of hand engraving with a motif depicting the score of Beethoven’s sixth symphony.

Grande sonnerie watches

Grande sonnerie watches are in a class of their own among musical timepieces due to their complexity. It was not until 1992 that the first wristwatch model of this kind appeared. Since then, the mastery of these pieces that sound the hours and quarters in passing – with repetition of the time before each quarter in grande sonnerie mode and without repetition in petite sonnerie mode – has remained fairly uncommon due its extremely stringent construction requirements.

Producing one calls for an integrated movement design that must also take into account several specificities of these complex mechanisms – starting with issues related to the security of its operation, given that any interference between the various functions is likely to damage the calibre. Energy management is also an essential parameter, since a grande sonnerie is called into action 96 times every 24 hours making a total of 912 hammer strikes on the watch’s gongs. As far as sound production is concerned, it requires great technical and musical virtuosity to ensure that the sequences are clearly audible
and melodiously clear.

Two centuries of expertise

Vacheron Constantin has mastered all these techniques for more than two centuries. The Manufacture’s archives indeed reveal a first pocket watch with grande and petite sonnerie and minute repeater dating from 1817. The company registers also make numerous references to striking watches, often associated with other complications or astronomical functions. With the advent of the wristwatch, Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in musical watches continued to be expressed, particularly through ultra-thin models, right the way through to 2017: key date for the Maison corresponding to the introduction of its Les Cabinotiers Symphonia watch, the first grande sonnerie wristwatch in Vacheron Constantin’s history equipped with the 1860 calibre also featuring a minute repeater. It is this same movement, stemming from ten years of research and development, that drives Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony.

This one-of-a-kind model is notably characterised by a dial adorned with a circular cross weave guilloché motif housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case, of which the middle bears a meticulously executed base-relief engraving of a musical score. The latter echoes Ludwig van Beethoven’s “Pastoral” Sixth Symphony in F major, hand-engraved on an olive-leaf background, decor inspired by a pocket-watch from the Vacheron Constantin Heritage collection, named « Les Bergers d’Arcadie », created in 1923. The pure sound along with the understated dial punctuated by a small seconds display and two power reserve indicators (one for the strikework with a treble clef hand-shape and the other for the timekeeping functions) endow this watch with the Maison’s characteristic aura of elegance. The beige tone of the dial also reinforces the classicism of the watch, enhanced by the open-tipped hands and the typography of the hour numerals.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

Excellence in every detail

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony meets a double requirement consisting in making a supreme complication movement – comprising 727 parts that takes 500 hours of assembly to fit within a 37 mm diameter – that is as easy to use as it is perfectly secure. The bi-directional manual-winding calibre with two barrels, one delivering 72 hours of power reserve and the other 20 hours of strikework power reserve, is thus equipped with innovative security systems that protect its striking mechanisms. The latter are controlled by the bezel for the grande and petite sonnerie and by a push-piece housed in the crown for the minute repeater.

To ensure a perfectly regular sequence of strikes on the monobloc goings, Vacheron Constantin’s master watchmakers have succeeded in eliminating the “phantom quarters”, meaning the short silences generally perceptible between the hours and minutes struck by a repeater. For the sake of excellence, the calibre is also equipped with a non-dragging surprise jumper, a mechanism enabling accurate strikes on full hours and quarters. A masterpiece of elegance and complexity, this Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony reveals the subtleties of its striking movement through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the
great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

The unique Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin – A romantic note is powered by the 1731 calibre, an ultra-thin movement featuring carefully studied acoustics. Its classic style exuding a very refined look, embellished with Arabic numerals appearing in an original font on a Grand Feu enamel dial, makes this 41 mm-diameter timepiece a timepiece for connoisseurs: only the minute repeater slide piece hints at its true nature as a complicated watch.

The history of the 1731 calibre

 The main characteristic of the 1731 calibre (thus named in a nod to Jean-Marc Vacheron’s birth year) is its extreme thinness for a minute repeater movement. At just 3.90 mm, it is only slightly thicker than its predecessor – the 1755 calibre dating from 1992 – because of its impressive 65-hour power reserve. It took four years to solve this most complex equation: to create a minute repeater movement, combining slimness, a pure sound, pleasing aesthetics, reliability and robustness.

Moreover, the technical feats are not confined to the challenge of extreme thinness, since the 1731 calibre is equipped with one of the most ingenious devices developed in 2007 for the 2755 movement – another member of this exclusive family of minute repeater calibres – a flying strike governor that is entirely silent, unlike conventional lever-type governors, and is tasked with regulating the rate at which hammers strike the gongs.

Acoustics, the real raison d’être of a minute repeater, was the focus of attention. To ensure the sound is crystal clear and perfectly harmonious, several different technical choices had to be made. The gongs are thus not only connected to the case middle so as to amplify the sound, but also superimposed, rather than aligned side by side.

The two pink gold cases are designed to form a single entity with the movement, in a composition that incorporates such subtle parameters as the circulation of air between the mechanism and the case in order to ensure optimal note propagation. The case has also been seamlessly constructed so that the elements can interact metal to metal and thus increase the amplitude of the sound.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

Disconcerting classicism

 Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin – A romantic touch is presented with an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and just 8.5 mm thick. This one-of-a-kind model features a dial crafted in Grand Feu enamel, one of the most demanding enamelling techniques, of which the “eggshell” colour blends perfectly with the aesthetics of the model.

Exuding an aura of unmistakable classicism, inspired by reference 4261 – an extremely understated Vacheron Constantin minute repeater watch dating from 1941 – this model is spiced up with an original font used for the railroad and the leaning Arabic black enamelled numerals. Slim hollow-tipped hands complete the “romantic” appearance of this piece, which is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap. Only the presence of slide piece on the left side of the case hints at the complexity of a minute repeater housed in this watch with its pure design. A watch for connoisseurs.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

 In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

 Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times).

While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

Overseas Dual Time Black

The Overseas collection treats itself to a total black look. Two new timepieces are available in a black lacquered dial beautifully framed by the shimmering gleam of the steel case. Launched in 2018, the Overseas dual time model equipped with the 5110 DT self-winding Manufacture movement enables simultaneous reading of two time zones, complete with date and day/night indication.

The Overseas Lady quartz, appears with diamonds on its bezel to light up the path of its hands, while the date is displayed at 3 o’clock. Following the Overseas Chronograph and the Overseas Automatic black dial success, the novelties unveiled today enrich the black dials references, highly sought after by collectors.

Overseas Dual Time

While travel is often associated with escapades and getting away from it all, it nonetheless requires careful scheduling. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin designed the Overseas dual time watch as part of a collection specifically dedicated to the spirit of travel. Everything in this timepiece has been designed to take account of the variable factors punctuating globetrotters’ daily lives, interpreted in a practical, useful and resolutely stylish manner.

The readability of the new black dial, the smooth adjustment of the functions, along with the wearer comfort ensured in all circumstances thanks to its three interchangeable bracelet/straps, make this Overseas dual time the ideal companion around the world.

Throbbing at the heart of the watch is the self-winding Manufacture 5110 DT calibre, derived from the 5100. Its distinctive feature lies in the simultaneous reading of two time zones. In addition to the traditional central hand-type time indications for local time, a fourth hand tipped with a red arrow displays the ‘home’ time, coupled with a day/night indicator. The date hand appearing on a sector at 6 o’clock is synchronized with local time, corrected by means of a push-piece.

Overseas Dual Time Black

The two 12-hour zones are adjustable via the crown in both directions. Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), this 234-component 5110 DT calibre has a comfortable 60-hour power reserve thanks to its two barrels wound by a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose and visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

The primary concern to offer a timepiece that is practical on any occasion is met by legibility. Set against the new translucent black-lacquered dial, the contrasting displays involving luminescent 18-carat gold facetted hour-markers and hands are all the more striking. And since this is a high-precision “instrument”, a double minutes and seconds scale has been placed around the rim. On the 41 mm steel case, emblematic of the collection with its hexagonal bezel, the crown and the date pushpiece are secured so as to ensure that the watch is water-resistant to 150 metres.

This Overseas dual time watch thus offers all the qualities of a watch of character, while losing none of its charm, enhanced on all occasions by the choice between its three interchangeable bracelet/straps. Without any need for tools, the watch is may thus be fitted with a steel bracelet featuring polished/satin-brushed links inspired by the Maltese cross, or else with a choice of rubber or alligator leather straps.

Overseas Lady Quartz

The Overseas collection treats itself to a total black look. Two new timepieces are available in a black lacquered dial beautifully framed by the shimmering gleam of the steel case. Launched in 2018, the Overseas dual time model equipped with the 5110 DT self-winding Manufacture movement enables simultaneous reading of two time zones, complete with date and day/night indication.

The Overseas Lady Quartz appears with diamonds on its bezel to light up the path of its hands, while the date is displayed at 3 o’clock. Following the Overseas Chronograph and the Overseas Automatic black dial success, the novelties unveiled today enrich the black dials references, highly sought after by collectors.

Overseas Lady Quartz

Overseas Lady Quartz

Quartz models for ladies in elegant watches with a sporty character are rooted in the tradition of the Maison. The legendary collection 222, launched in 1977, already incorporated a ladies’ version in gold or two-tone gold and steel, introducing a quartz movement. 19 years later, Vacheron Constantin presented the Overseas collection, featuring three models, the ladies’ model with – as in the 222 model – a quartz movement, particularly appreciated by women for its precision and its practical aspect.

The new Overseas Lady quartz embraces a 33 mm diameter case to combine feminity and charm with its sporty look. Rimmed with a diamond-set bezel, its black sunburst lacquered dial makes a pleasing contrast with the facetted and luminescent 18K white gold hour-markers and hands. This practical and eminently legible Overseas model enhances its sporty look with the taut lines of its case water-resistant to 50 metres, flowing into a steel bracelet that can be changed according to its wearer’s wishes.

Suitable for all wrists with its 33 mm diameter, this model features a style capable of evolving as the day goes by, thanks to its interchangeable bracelet/straps concept endowing it with a variety of styles. Designed to ensure the Overseas a collection is fully in touch with its time, the bracelets/straps interchangeability concept launched in 2016 is picked up on this model.

The watch thus opts for modularity and a personalised touch by affording the possibility of being worn on a metal bracelet composed of links forming half Maltese crosses (for a more casual look), or a strap in either leather (as a chic variation) or rubber (for a sporty touch) – and all without any need for tools to effect the changes.

Overseas Lady Quartz

The hexagonal bezel, whose shape is reminiscent of Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic Maltese cross, is adorned with 78 bead-set round-cut diamonds. In order to focus on functionality, a quartz hours and minutes movement was chosen, also driving a central seconds hand and an aperture-type date indication at 3 o’clock.

Available in three versions – two steel models with a black or blue “denim” dial and a pink gold model with a silver dial –, this new watch offers all the qualities one would expect from a watch of character, while preserving its innate charm.

Jean-Luc Martinez, President-Director of the Musée du Louvre and Louis Ferla, CEO Vacheron Constantin

Throughout its history, Vacheron Constantin has demonstrated a deep commitment to art and culture, embodied in numerous partnerships. Its relationship with the Louvre is a natural extension of this celebration of beauty and this constant concern for the conservation, preservation and transmission of heritage. Future projects will include collaborations inspired by the collections of the Louvre.

After having supported in 2016 the restoration of the clock named La Création du Monde (a masterpiece of 18th century precision horology presented to King Louis XV in 1754 and deposited by the Musée national des châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon in the Louvre), Vacheron Constantin is signing a partnership with the Louvre this year. This collaboration reflects the respective legacies of the two institutions that share the same respect for history, culture and heritage.

Louis Ferla, CEO Vacheron Constantin, said: “I enthusiastically welcome this collaboration between our two institutions, both centuries-old yet firmly rooted in the 21st century, as evidenced by the favour they enjoy among an audience of connoisseurs. Our Maison has long since stood out in terms of both artistic commitment and cultural patronage. With the Louvre, we are beginning a very promising new chapter. We could not have dreamt of a better partner for a constructive dialogue on the themes of art and culture.”

Musée du Louvre

Jean-Luc Martinez, President-Director of the Musée du Louvre, commented: “The Louvre has always been a vibrant place, inspiring creative talents of every era. I am delighted that Vacheron Constantin, a Maison committed to the patient and demanding workmanship involved in Haute Horlogerie, now finds in the Louvre a repertoire and techniques that reinforce and magnify its concern for beauty.”

This partnership with the Louvre is a natural continuation of Vacheron Constantin’s artistic and cultural commitment, encompassing areas inherent in centuries-old institutions for which archiving, conservation and restoration are decisive factors. This attachment to the splendours of the past and the transmission of knowledge also means profound respect for artistic crafts, which are essential in Vacheron Constantin’s creations as well as in the activities of the Louvre.

On the strength of these shared skills that will prove naturally conducive to discussions on artisanal practices and techniques, the two institutions have sealed a partnership that will notably take the form of horological projects inspired by the Louvre’s masterpieces. Vacheron Constantin and the Louvre will also collaborate on creative projects aimed at promoting art, creation and beauty through a multicultural approach.

Louis Ferla

 

The Innovation prize is awarded to Vacheron Constantin, for the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar.

 

 

Vacheron Constantin

• Case, dial, crown, buckle and strap stitching in 950 platinum
• 75-piece limited series
Because platinum holds a special place in the realm of prestige watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin created a collection dedicated to this precious metal in 2006, named the Collection Excellence Platine. Exclusively composed of exceptional models issued in limited editions, this collection now welcomes a new version of the famous Traditionnelle manual winding.

The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch symbolises the Vacheron Constantin spirit, as much through its understated, elegant design as in its respect for the values of Fine Watchmaking. This model is now presented in an all-platinum version that is joining the prestigious Collection Excellence Platine, much appreciated by collectors with a penchant for exclusive models. This new timepiece will be available in an individually numbered 75-piece limited edition.

With the exception of the hour-markers and hands crafted from white gold, the entire watch – case, dial, crown and
strap buckle – is made of 950 platinum. Adding an ultimate touch of refinement, the stitching of the dark blue alligator leather strap is created from interwoven platinum and silk thread.

On a dial with a sandblasted finish, punctuated by slim applied hour-markers, a railway-type minute track and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock ensure a remarkable visual balance. The “Pt950” inscription between 4 and 5 o’clock discreetly indicates that this model belongs to the Collection Excellence Platine.

Inside the 38 mm diameter case beats a movement that also honours the Fine Watchmaking tradition in terms of
both precision and reliability. Displaying its remarkable hand-finished details through a transparent sapphire crystal
caseback, the in-house manual-winding 4400 AS calibre is endowed with a 65-hour power reserve.

TECHNICAL DATA – Traditionnelle manual-winding – Collection Excellence Platine

REFERENCE 82172/000P-B527
CALIBRE 4400 AS
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
28.6 mm (12½’’’), diameter, 2.8 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
127 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds
CASE 950 platinum
38 mm diameter, 7.77 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx.
30 metres)
DIAL 950 platinum, sand-blasted
“Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
18K white gold applied hour-markers and Maltese cross
STRAP Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched
with 950 platinum and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
BUCKLE 950 platinum buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

www.vacheron-constantin.com

To combat counterfeiting and guarantee owners the authenticity of their watches throughout their lifespan, Vacheron Constantin is committing to a certification process supported by Blockchain technology. Keen to offer its customers optimal-quality service, the Maison adopts this highly innovative and high value-added form of authentication for Les Collectionneurs timepieces. This innovation was presented at Viva Technology 2019 in Paris, France.

Dedicated to serving clients

Building on a heritage born in 1755 and based on the transmission of excellence through generations of master artisans, Vacheron Constantin continues to be fully engaged with its era. As the Richemont Group’s pilot Maison for testing the certification of its watches via Blockchain technology, the Manufacture confirms its constant desire to offer its customers the best possible guarantees.

Blockchain certification serves to avoid paper authentication, which can easily be forged. This new technology makes it possible to create a forgery-proof digital certificate of authenticity, which follows the watch throughout its life, even if that involves several changes of owner. A unique number is thus assigned to a unique object, making the two inseparable and securing data relating to the property, value, nature and authenticity of the timepiece.

“Les Collectionneurs” watches benefit from Blockchain technology

Vacheron Constantin has chosen to conduct a first test on its Les Collectionneurs collection. Hunted out and selected with patience and talent by the Maison’s heritage specialists, these vintage watches cover the entire 20th century. They are made available to connoisseurs at dedicated events organised in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world. This offer without parallel in the watchmaking world now benefits – in addition to the printed certificate – from the new, protected digital certificate, guaranteeing its authenticity in a durable, immutable and transparent manner.

In addition to the possibility of effectively combating counterfeiting and ensuring traceability over time, Blockchain technology-enabled certification allows Vacheron Constantin to incorporate other elements within the certificate, such as a history of the item concerned as well as information on the collection and the Maison.

This first experience successfully presented at Viva Technology 2019 in Paris, opens up a wealth of possibilities for continuous improvement of service and warranties. The ultra-secure digital certification places the customer at the heart of the process by offering a guarantee of quality control, authenticity, traceability and data protection, while ensuring his anonymity.

www.vacheron-constantin.com

Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin blue dial

• A midnight blue dial colour dedicated to the Patrimony collection
• A supreme complication driven by an ultra-thin self-winding movement
• A timeless style offering a blend of pure, elegant lines

An emblematic model from the Patrimony collection is adopting the midnight blue shade specially created for the line. The Patrimony perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch beats to the rhythm of the legendary 1120 QP calibre, an ultra-thin self-winding movement. With its sleek lines embodying quintessential elegance, this version treats connoisseurs to unrivalled contemporary refinement.

The 1120 QP calibre
The 1120 QP calibre developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin drives the indications of the hours, minutes, moon phase at 6 o’clock and perpetual calendar with day of the week in a counter at 9 o’clock, date in a counter at 3 o’clock, as well as month and leap year on 48-month counters at 12 o’clock. Recognised by connoisseurs as one of the most iconic perpetual calendars on the market, it can cope with all the vagaries of the calendar without any corrections until March 1st 2100. Unlike simple calendars that require manual adjustment after each month of less than 31 days, the perpetual calendar takes account of the leap-year cycle, with its 31, 30 or 28-day months and the quadrennial return of February 29th. In a final pleasing touch, the moon phase display, adorned in champlevé enamel whose colour is only revealed after ultra-precise firing at very high temperature (approx. 1000°C), evokes the beauty of life’s most beautiful nights.

The perpetual calendar complication requires miniaturisation prowess in that the movement must be mechanically adjusted to deal with calendar irregularities. This miniaturisation has been pushed to the limit in order to create an ultra-thin perpetual calendar, with Vacheron Constantin’s Calibre 1120 QP measuring a mere 4.05 mm thick. This feat of engineering with its openwork Maltese cross-shaped oscillating weight comprises no less than 276 components, finished in accordance with the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie. Performing a magical and mesmerising ballet, the latter proudly display their exceptional level of finishing through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback of the watch. Finally, the steady beating of its heart at a rate of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour) ensures the precision of the movement as well as its 40-hour power reserve.

Introduced with a pink gold case that makes a perfect match with the sunburst satin-finished blue shade of the dial, and equipped with a folding clasp, this watch naturally conveys the personality of its owner: a timelessly elegant aesthete who matches his appearance with the dark blue of the alligator leather strap, of which the back is also lined with the same leather in an ultimate touch of refinement.

TECHNICAL DATA – Patrimony perpetual calendar ultra-thin

REFERENCE 43175/000R-B519
CALIBRE 1120 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29.6 mm (121⁄2’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

INDICATIONS Hours, minutes

Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
Moon phase
CASE 18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 8.9 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

DIAL Midnight blue with sunburst satin-finishing
Convex external zone with circular “pearl” minute-track
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

STRAP Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, tone-to-tone stitching,

saddle-finish, large square scales
CLASP 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

www.vacheron-constantin.com

BOYNAM

During this year’s SIHH 2019 in Geneva, Switzerland, we were able to interview the Chinese Blogger BOYNAM. BOYNAM told us what he thought about the new collection at Vacheron Constantin.

Interviewed by Pascal Grenacher

 

In the wake of the most complicated watch ever made, the Ref. 57260 with 57 complications, Vacheron Constantin unveils the Maître Cabinotier retrograde armillary tourbillon model. This timepiece bearing the Hallmark of Geneva was produced by the three master watchmakers who created Ref. 57260, and they incorporated two of the complicated features of the superwatch: the armillary tourbillon and the double retrograde indication. Its contemporary styling opens the remarkable structure of the calibre 1990 movement to view. The high-precision manually wound movement is housed in a 45.7mm case in white gold. Four patent applications have been filed for this unique model.

Inspired by the Reference 57260

On September 17, 2015, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a watch with 57 complications — the most complicated watch ever made. This mechanical wonder, devised by three master watchmakers from the company’s Atelier Cabinotiers workshops, took eight years to develop and was presented to mark Vacheron Constantin’s 260th anniversary. The one-off piece was made to a special commission, using the latest technology to preserve the traditional watchmaking principles certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The research and skill mobilised to create the superwatch remained a source of inspiration as well as a development resource for its three watchmakers, who were at the same time working to highlight some of its complications separately.

The Maître Cabinotier retrograde armillary tourbillon model is the first born of this project. It’s a remake of two of the Ref. 57260’s complications, the double retrograde indications and the armillary tourbillon, in a contemporary guise. The retrograde function governs the hours and minutes while the tourbillon revolves on two axes and has a spherical balance-spring. The movement coated with NAC (a special metal alloy) is also revealed through lateral windows in its imposing case. This timepiece forms part of the select Maître Cabinotier collection, which showcases Vacheron Constantin’s horological achievements, customised work and overall excellence.

Double retrograde system

The manually wound calibre 1990 movement developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin features retrograde hours and minutes indications with instant flyback. The double indications are as technically fascinating as they are visually mesmerising. The hands flick back to zero at such a speed that the special attention is needed to ensure a precise indication and such lightweight and resistant materials as the titanium used in the hands.

Armillary tourbillon

The lighting reaction of the retrograde hands contrasts with the more stately pace of the armillary tourbillon with a spherical balance spring. The elegantly structured tourbillon operates as a sphere perpetually rotating on two axes under a sapphire crystal dome at 9 o’clock. It’s called an armillary tourbillon because it is based on an armillary sphere like the one incorporated in an astronomic clock made by the French clockmaker, Antide Janvier, in the 18th century. The tourbillon is a visual evocation of the rings and hoops of the ancient model of the celestial sphere. The spherical balance spring, which was first developed by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, is particularly rare in today’s watches. The shape ensures the concentric development of the spring and consequently the isochronism of the balance wheel. The tourbillon carriage, made of lightweight aluminium alloy, incorporates Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem, which forms up every 15 seconds as the tourbillon rotates. This ongoing spectacle may be admired every 30 seconds through a sapphire crystal opening on the side of the case.

High-precision movement

As fascinating as it is for its action and construction, the armillary tourbillon achieves remarkable timekeeping precision. It is fitted with a new type of escapement, developed and made by Vacheron Constantin that has the escape wheel and lever in silicon with diamond pallet stones for resistance to wear and long life. The escapement, made as lightweight as possible by the use of high-tech materials, contributes significantly to the performance of this watch, which greatly exceeds the requirements of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). This level of precision is all the more noteworthy considering the large amount of energy absorbed by the double retrograde indications.

Contemporary styling and finish

Another feature that makes the Maître Cabinotier retrograde armillary tourbillon watch original is the modern styling applied to the architecture and finish of the movement. The calibre 1990 is electro-plated with an NAC treatment in a dark anthracite colour creating a mirror-polished effect. On the dial side the movement displays its modern architecture with sharply cut bridges tempered by a sunburst satin finish and Geneva stripes. The back presents a more conventional look, finished with Geneva stripes making an elegant counterpoint to the contemporary face of this unparalleled watch in the Vacheron Constantin product range. As an additional token of excellence, the painstaking work of chamfering all the edges took more than 130 hours. The indications are shown on two dials that partially cover the baseplate so as to reveal the outlines and contemporary finish of the movement. On the right, the retrograde minutes and hours hands describe a semicircle over a sunburst satin finish punctuated by applied white-gold hour markers and a black minutes scale. Placed symmetrically, the tourbillon carriage carries the seconds pointer around a scale on a silvered disc. The Poinçon de Genève hallmark is exceptionally also engraved on the dial side above the inscription “Armillary Tourbillon” to certify the supreme quality of this timepiece.