Creation of a New Watch Trade Show in Geneva in Collaboration with the Fondation DE La Haute Horlogerie
Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor leave Baselworld to create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. The show will be held early April 2021 at Palexpo, at the same time as Watches & Wonders. This departure follows a number of unilateral decisions made without consultation by Baselworld management, including the postponement of the watch show until January 2021, as well as its inability to meet the brands’ needs and expectations.
The new show, which will be linked to Watches & Wonders, organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take place at Palexpo. The aim is to offer partner brands the best possible professional platform, applying a shared vision to successfully meet future challenges in the watchmaking industry. It will also give crucial prominence to the sector’s expertise and innovations, both in Switzerland and internationally.
Other brands may also be added, according to terms that have not yet been defined. This new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers.
Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Montres Tudor SA, said: “We have taken part in Baselworld since 1939. Unfortunately, given the way the event has evolved and the recent decisions made by MCH Group, and in spite of the great attachment we had to this watch show, we have decided to withdraw. Following discussions initiated by Rolex, it seemed only natural to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector. This will allow us to present our new watches in line with our needs and expectations, to join forces and better defend the interests of the industry.”
Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe said: “The decision to leave Baselworld was not an easy one to take for me, being the fourth generation of the Stern family to participate to this traditional yearly event. But life evolves constantly, things change and people change as well, whether it is at the level of those responsible for the watch fair organization, the brands or the clients. We constantly have to adapt ourselves, question what we do, since what was right yesterday may not necessarily be valid today! Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.
We need to answer the legitimate needs of our retailers, the clients and the press from around the world. They have to be able to discover the new models from Swiss watchmakers each year, at one time, in one place, and this in the most professional manner possible.
That is why, following several discussions with Rolex and in agreement with other participating brands, we have decided to create, all together, a unique event in Geneva, representative of our savoir-faire.“
Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery said: “Like its partners, CHANEL shares the same independence and the same desire to protect and promote the values, know-how, utmost quality and precision of Swiss Watchmaking. This initiative marks a key milestone in the history of CHANEL Watchmaking and is part of a long-term strategy, which began with the launch of this activity in 1987. This exhibition will allow us to present all of our new creations in an environment that meets our high-quality standards.”
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard et Cie SA said: “Chopard first exhibited at the Basel fair in 1964 with a stand of some 25 square metres. After careful consideration, our family decided to support the Rolex initiative and retire from Baselworld – a painful decision. The creation of this new watch show in Geneva, in parallel to Watches & Wonders, will allow us to better serve our watchmaking partners and our customers. Through the alliance, these grandes maisons will also be able to collaborate in promoting the values and best interests of Swiss watchmaking.”
Jérôme Lambert, on behalf of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Council said: “The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is delighted to welcome a new salon which will strengthen the historical Watches & Wonders event in Geneva next year in early April.”
Further information will be published at a later date, in particular concerning the name of the new watch fair and its organization.
All the most gorgeous roses in the world, spreading out their aura like a red carpet, twirling and dancing with a superb parade of natural scents, creating multiple emotions. Love Chopard is a flamboyant, sweet and seductive fragrance. The ultimate adornment for any young star who gorgeously walks her own red carpet every day.
An ode to the rose, queen of love, queen of flowers and queen of perfumery.
The red carpet fragrance that makes heads and hearts turn.
A Whirl of the Most Gorgeous Roses
Love Chopard Loves Roses
Love Chopard is composed around six exceptional varieties of roses, among which some of the most extraordinary roses, such as Bulgarian rose oil, Turkish rose absolute and Centifolia rose absolute.
“I must have roses always and always! They are the most beautiful way to a woman’s heart.”
Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s Co-President
A Precious Flower of Hearts
Chopard Loves Jewels
Love Chopard’s superb flacon is a talisman that beautifully speaks the words of love. Entirely crafted from noble heavy glass set with gold details, it is sculpted to outline a precious flower of hearts, dressed in fiery red, the universal colour of love and passion. True jewel of perfumery and iconic symbol of love, Love Chopard is the perfect gift, to offer and receive.
Towards a More Sustainable World
Chopard Loves Nature
“With Love Chopard, I am proud to take our Journey to Sustainable Luxury Perfumery to new heights, introducing what I consider one of the most sustainable luxury fragrances in the world.”
Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s Co-President
In partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Maison Chopard is proud to announce its participation at the 4th edition of the Dubai Watch Week that will take place at the Dubai International Financial Center, from November 20th to 24th, 2019. For the first time, Chopard will be present in a private exhibition area dedicated to its latest watch collection launched on October 1st; the Alpine Eagle. The 485 square meters, meticulously designed stand-alone area, will take the guests in an immersive journeyto discover the unique Alpine Eagle environment.
Alpine Eagle, the rebirth of a watch icon
Contemporary, refined and assertive, the new Alpine Eagle sports chic timepiece collection is a state-of-the-art reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first watch created in 1980 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, now co-president of Chopard. Imagined and personally designed by him, Alpine Eagle is driven by his passion for the Alps and by the lofty power of the eagle that reigns supreme there. Crafted from an exclusive, ultra-resistant and light-reflecting metal named Lucent Steel A223, it beats to the rhythm of a Chopard chronometer-certified movement.
Bearing testament to Chopard’s ethical approach, Alpine Eagle gives the Maison an opportunity to reveal its new commitment to protecting the Alpine environment through the launch of the Eagle Wings Foundation – of which Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a founding member. Alpine Eagle is dedicated to contemporary eagles, the aspiring men who outperform in their daily lives and whose vision inspires and elevates. With foresight and determination, they act on the challenges of tomorrow and are innately aware of the importance of environmental issues.
The 4th edition of Dubai Watch Week
Dubai Watch Week is a global platform dedicated to the preservation of watchmaking culture and heritage by creating one of the largest non-commercial events for the international watch community. Founded in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the event provides an intimate environment for collectors, brands, watchmakers and members of the media to interact and share knowledge.
L.U.C Flying T Twin – Chopard’s first flying tourbillon
With the new L.U.C Flying T Twin, Chopard is unveiling its first calibre equipped with a flying tourbillon. This technically and aesthetically sophisticated timepiece is distinguished by its remarkable charisma: a hand-guilloché gold dial, impeccable proportions and an ultra-thin case in ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold make it a truly exceptional creation within the L.U.C collection. This extremely refined 50-piece limited series designed for contemporary gentlemen connoisseurs of Fine Watchmaking is certified by the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
While this is a technical first, elegance is the predominant feature here. While the L.U.C Flying T Twin houses an exceptional movement, it stands out first and foremost for the finesse and refinement of its dial. With a case measuring just 7.2 mm, it is the ideal complement for a Sea Island cotton shirt and a deliberately mismatched baby cashmere jacket. While undeniably chic and elegant, this new model in the L.U.C collection does not confine itself to a purely formal approach, thanks to its colour contrasts mingling the warmth of rose gold with anthracite grey.
Nestling inside its ultra-thin 40 mm-diameter case in 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold is a new calibre developed specifically for this timepiece and rounding off the exhaustive range of complications featured in L.U.C models. It is regulated by a flying tourbillon as well as being automatic, a double first for Chopard. This chronometer-certified movement also features a stop-seconds device which is extremely rare on a tourbillon and enables perfectly accurate time-setting. Testifying to the fine craftsmanship lavished on the L.U.C Flying T Twin, it also bears the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
A freely spinning carriage
The flying tourbillon of the L.U.C Flying T Twin timepiece is highlighted through a large-diameter aperture at 6 o’clock providing a view into the movement. The physical and visual lightness of the flying tourbillon is used to create a sense of transparency and depth, directly contributing to the exceptional personality of L.U.C Flying T Twin.
This opening appears in the solid dial hand-guilloché executed by Chopard artisans. A snailed motif appears around the chapter ring, while the central medallion is adorned with a honeycomb motif introduced on the 2017 L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer edition. Symbolising a beehive, it is a nod to the first logo used by Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Finally, the ruthenium grey dial strikes a pleasing contrast with the rose gold hands and hour-markers.
L.U.C horological excellence
L.U.C Flying T Twin is the first Chopard timepiece to house a flying tourbillon. Entirely developed, produced and assembled in the L.U.C workshops, it is distinguished by the slenderness of its 7.2 mm case. A flying tourbillon is characterised by the absence of an upper bridge and is naturally slimmer due to being supported from underneath. Calibre 96.24-L is just 3.30 mm thick, the same size as the first Chopard Manufacture movement, Calibre 96.01-L, from which it has evolved. This horological feat in no way modifies any of its fundamental characteristics. Its diameter, its 65-hour power reserve – supplied by two stacked barrels according to Chopard’s patented Twin Technology – and its automatic winding via a 22-carat gold winding rotor are all in place. Nonetheless, the movement has no date so as to preserve the purity of the design and leave ample space for the tourbillon.
Gold is a L.U.C signature here, since the L.U.C Flying T Twin is crafted from a block of ethically certified “Fairmined” gold. It is responsibly sourced from artisanal mining cooperatives, where both the environment and miners are treated correctly, and to which Chopard pays a premium to be reinvested in community projects.
Chopard is currently the main global purchaser of “Fairmined” gold, which the Manufacture reserves for the production of its Grand Complication watch creations – such as the L.U.C Flying T Twin timepiece – as well as some of its Haute Joaillerie models. Since July 2018, the Maison has been using 100% Ethical gold for the production of all its watches and jewellery.
Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed at the Maison’s Geneva and Fleurier production sites. Movement development, finished product design, gold smelting, case stamping and machining, calibre components, traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: Chopard masters the full range of watch production operations and applies them to each and every L.U.C watch. These exceptional timepieces stemming from meticulous workmanship meet the aspirations of the modern-day gentleman, speaking to him without artifice or pretention, through a subtle blend of artisanal expertise, distinction and emotions.
The soft gleam of platinum. The sparkle of diamonds. The refinement of a Chopard flying tourbillon calibre. The ten L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette timepieces perfectly master the formal elegance one expects on the steps of the Cannes Film Festival. Drawing on all sources of nobility and exclusivity, Chopard adorns men’s wrists with an extremely rare watch featuring the first Chopard movement equipped with a flying tourbillon: the L.U.C 96.24-L calibre. This pinnacle of watchmaking art is poised to shine amid the popping of camera flashes lighting up the red carpet leading to the Palais des Festivals.
Chopard, the Red Carpet jeweller
Chopard and cinema are caught up in a never-ending story of love and emotions. In 1998, on the initiative of Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, the Maison became an official partner to the world’s largest film event: the Cannes International Film Festival. Since then, the mythical montée des marches ritual has been accompanied by dazzling creations carefully crafted in the Chopard workshops. And because gentlemen are equally keen to shine alongside women as the cameras flash at the Cannes Film Festival, Chopard is presenting a new edition of its first flying tourbillon watch, specially designed to be worn on the red carpet. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette limited edition will be reserved for ten gentlemen who wish to own a timepiece that is as inwardly precious as it is outwardly refined.
Elegance and technique
A tuxedo of the finest summer wool. A Sea Island cotton pleated shirt with onyx buttons. A wide, slightly nonchalant velvet bow tie. Which watch could be better suited to this impeccably chic outfit – a subtle variation on the mandatory dress code theme for ascending the red-carpeted staircase at Cannes – than the L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette? Carved from platinum. Adorned with baguette-cut diamonds. Fitted with a black hand-guillochéd solid gold dial featuring the gilded L.U.CHOPARD logo and a sunburst satin-brushed rim. Distinguished by impeccably slim proportions. Highlighting this veritable festival of Haute Horlogerie, it is equipped with an exquisitely crafted self-winding flying tourbillon movement. This 7.2 mm thick ten-piece limited edition watch is the masculine counterpart of Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection, presented at the Cannes Film Festival.
The L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette timepiece is a magnificent work of horological art, combining the excellence of manual finishing with that of materials, the exceptional brilliance of diamonds with the charisma of a precious metal. Raising both form and substance to the highest degree of sophistication, this timepiece nonetheless maintains a soberly understated approach entirely in keeping with the subtle codes governing evening wear. Already the acknowledged Red Carpet Jeweller and creator of dazzling jewellery, Chopard also naturally finds its way onto the wrists of actors, directors, producers and gentlemen from around the world. They needed a piece on a par with the event, capable of enhancing their wrists with its inherent exclusivity and brilliance. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette is all this at once.
Chopard, partner to the Cannes International Film Festival since 1998, is proudly presenting a new Haute Horlogerie L.U.C timepiece specially dedicated to gentlemen treading the red carpet of this unmissable annual film event. Inspired by the colours of the Riviera, the blue-clad hand-guilloché dial of the new L.U.C XPS Azur perfectly mirrors the shades of the Mediterranean. Issued in a ten-piece limited series made of 18-carat ethical gold, it bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and beats to the rhythm of the L.U.C 96.01-L movement, chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The L.U.C XPS Azur is the ultimate reflection of the craftsmanship and quest for aesthetic refinement characteristic of Chopard Manufacture’s exclusive horological creations.
Chopard, the Red Carpet watchmaker-jeweller
Chopard and film-making are engaged in an ageless love story built on powerful emotions. In 1998, at the initiative of Chopard Co-President and Creative Director Caroline Scheufele, the Maison became Official Partner to the world’s greatest cinema event: the Cannes International Film Festival. Ever since artists’ appearances on the red carpet and the legendary ‘Montée des marches’ ritual have been accompanied by dazzling creations meticulously crafted Chopard’s workshops. Its artisans master the art of making far more than merely watches and jewellery, instead of giving life to creations synonymous with emotions. Given that gentlemen are just as keen as women to shine in front of the camera flashlights at the Cannes International Film Festival. Chopard is presenting a new interpretation of its exceptional L.U.C timepiece collection, specially designed to be worn on the red carpet: the L.U.C XPS Azur in 18-carat ethical white gold. This intrinsically exclusive new L.U.C model is issued in a ten-piece limited edition and adorned with a dial whose azure hue recalls the intense blue of the Mediterranean sea, dotted with luxury wooden runabouts whisking gentleman from their yachts anchored in the bay of Cannes and moored to the pontoons of La Croisette ahead of the red carpet ceremony. A French Riviera touch is synonymous with elegance and glamour.
Imbued with elegant simplicity, the L.U.C XPS watch – famed within the L.U.C collection for its pared-down, modern design – now appears bedecked in azure blue. Its slim 40 mm-diameter 18-carat ethical white gold case frames an azure blue dial graced with a hand-guilloché radiating motif reflecting the exceptional expertise cultivated by Chopard. The sunburst rim is lit up by baguette-cut hour-markers, swept over by Dauphine-type hands. Endowed with the aesthetic codes of the L.U.C collection, this timepiece also features perfectly proportioned lines and houses an in-house manufactured ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement. Equipped with a 22-carat micro-rotor and two barrels (Chopard Twin technology) ensuring approximately 65 hours of operating autonomy, the L.U.C 96.01-L movement measures 3.3 mm thick and displays remarkable precision, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It’s artisanal finishing, visible through the exhibition case-back, testifies the extreme degree of craftsmanship distinguishing Haute Horlogerie creations bearing the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark: bridges meticulously chamfered and adorned with Côtes de Genève, along with a chamfered and circular-grained mainplate. Admirably expressing style and fine craftsmanship, this unique model radiates a prestigious aura on the red carpet at the Cannes Festival.
The newest interpretation of the iconic Happy Sport has curvy oval proportions and a supple, updated version of the original galet (pebble) bracelet that adorned the first watch in the collection back in 1993. The bracelet is masterfully constructed using polished rounded pebble-like links, and while made of steel, it is as flexible as knitted mesh. It thus follows the curves of the wrist. This combination of fine construction, along with the use of both steel and diamonds, makes the watch accessible and wearable in the spirit of the easy-going charm at the heart of Happy Sport. In addition to the seven bezel-set diamonds dancing between sapphire crystals over the dial, there are diamonds set into the curved bezel of the stainless steel version.
CHOPARD embraces the basics of traditional fine watchmaking with the classic L.U.C Quattro. The satin-brushed dial is an extraordinary greyish-green shade, evoking private gentlemen’s clubs and a formal air of elegance, yet with eccentric details, including the dial’s satin-brushed finish, Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock and the Super-LumiNova covered Dauphine fusée-type hands. The movement, caliber L.U.C 98.01-L, has two pairs of stacked barrels for an incredible 216-hour (nine-day) power reserve. Despite this Quattro mainspring power, the movement is still ultra-thin, and the case is only 8.84 mm thick. This is a 50-piece limited edition in 18k white gold, with a 43 mm case. It is finished to Poinçon de Genève standards.
WATCHES & WONDERS MIAMI EXCEEDS EXPECTATIONS, BECOMING THE NEW MUST-ATTEND EVENT FOR LUXURY CONSUMERS
New Product Introductions, Interactive Programming And A Full Weekend Of Event Activations Draw Record Crowds To The Miami Design District
In just two years, Watches & Wonders Miami (WWM), presented by the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) and the Miami Design District Associates (MDDA), has captured the attention of luxury consumers with its access to the latest new products from 30 of the world’s leading watch and jewelry maisons, along with a robust offering of interactive educational programming and integrated partnerships with both the Miami Concours and the Miami Yacht Show. The three-day event, taking place over the popular Presidents Day Weekend, attracted nearly 28,000 attendees to the Miami Design District—an astonishing 40% increase from last year’s inaugural event.
“We could not be more pleased with the results of Watches & Wonders Miami 2019,” stated Fabienne Lupo, Chairwoman and Managing Director of the Foundation Haute Horlogerie. “In addition to the significant growth and expansion that we’ve been able to achieve, there has been overwhelmingly positive feedback from attendees. Our exhibiting maisons are also thrilled with the success and we are already talking about plans for next year.”
“From watch connoisseurs and car fanatics to locals and first-time visitors, we welcomed more people than ever before to the Miami Design District this weekend for the return of Watches and Wonders,” said Craig Robins, CEO of Dacra Development and developer of the Miami Design District. “Foot traffic almost doubled from last year, a sign of a remarkably successful event which could not have been possible without our partners the FHH, Miami Concours and the Miami Yacht Show. As Watches and Wonders continues to grow, we can’t wait to see what next year’s edition will bring to the vibrant city of Miami!”
A Thursday night pre-opening cocktail party at Design District hot spot, Swan, brought together industry executives, top collectors and Miami’s best and brightest, kicking off a weekend of festivities that also included a special concert in the Palm Court by the Miami Symphony Orchestra which composed a new score especially for the event. Exhibiting maisons presented their latest collections featuring extraordinary one-of-a-kind creations and the most sought-after new introductions, while also treating guests to a range of compelling events and activations from lively conversations with celebrated watchmakers and master craftsmen, to art installations, rooftop soirees and intimate dinners with industry leaders and legends.
Many exhibitors such as Dior, Girard-Perregaux, Hublot, HYT and Ulysse Nardin used WWM as the ideal platform to hold major global new product launches to an audience of luxury consumers, industry influencers and media. And for CEOs such as Jean-Marc Pontroué of Panerai and Patrick Pruniaux of Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, as well as Grégory Dourde of HYT, Pierre Jacques of De Bethune, Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie., Christelle Rosnoblet of Speake-Marin, Marco Tedeschi of RJ, and master watchmakers Romain Gauthier and Kari Voutilainen, WWM offered a rare opportunity for them to connect directly with their fans and future collectors and share their savoir-faire.
With its ongoing mission to further fine watchmaking education globally, the FHH organized three full days of sold-out workshops, conferences and panel discussions that featured an impressive line-up of CEOs, leading retailers and notable journalists. Dynamic speakers such as Ann Micklos from NASA, who showcased the watch that survived the Columbia space shuttle disaster, along with dedicated women’s tracks, and lively discussions on topics ranging from social media to insider tips on collecting, helped draw more than 500 attendees to the educational sessions.
On Sunday, red carpet lined 39th Street and some of the world’s rarest and most collectible automobiles were on display for WWM guests as part of the Miami Concours. A 1949 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 SS won Best of Show and automotive legend Horacio Pagani was also honoured. The nearby 31st annual Miami Yacht Show Record crowds visited the nearby Miami Yacht Show, in its new location at One Herald Plaza, also added even more “wonder” to the weekend with nearly 500 extraordinary yachts and super yachts on display, including the 300+ foot ‘Kismet’.
The FHH and MDDA have confirmed that Watches & Wonders Miami will return for a third consecutive year in 2020 to once again offer attendees exceptional access to latest watch and jewelry novelties from the world’s leading maisons, as well as unique educational and experiential opportunities for all.
The 30 maisons that participated in Watches & Wonders Miami are:
Lange & Söhne
Tiffany & Co.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Grand Pop-Up Exhibition Spaces
Pop-Up Exhibition Spaces
H. Moser & Cie.
Fondation Haute Horlogerie
The Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) was established in 2005 by Audemars Piguet, Girard- Perregaux and the Richemont Group. Headquartered, in Geneva, Switzerland, the FHH strives to promote awareness, understanding and interest in Fine Watchmaking around the world through education, training and specialized events. The FHH works in conjunction with 44 partner brands that provide financial support and assistance with project implementation.
Miami Design District Associates
The Miami Design District is a neighborhood dedicated to innovative fashion, design, architecture and dining experiences. The Miami Design District is owned by Miami Design District Associates, a partnership between Dacra, founded and owned by visionary entrepreneur Craig Robins, and L Real Estate Catterton, a global real estate development and investment fund, specializing in creating luxury shopping destinations. Together Dacra and L Real Estate Catterton have actively transformed the once-overlooked area of Miami into a vibrant destination for residents and visitors by presenting the best shopping, cultural and culinary experiences within an architecturally significant context. The vision for a rejuvenated Design District — responsive to its historic, urban and tropical context – was codified in an urban master plan developed by the award-winning master planners Duany Plater-Zyberk, with the additional participation of architects including Walter Chatham, Hariri and Hariri, Juan Lezcano, Terence Riley, and Alison Spear. The Miami Design District embodies a singular dedication to the unity of design, fashion, art and architecture, and a commitment to encourage a neighborhood comprised of creative experiences.
Interviewed by Pascal Grenacher
Winner of the Aiguille d’Or (Best in Show) prize at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the L.U.C. Full Strike is adopting a new colour. This fresh interpretation clothes Chopard’s first minute repeater watch in handsome shades of grey, whilst not losing its technically revolutionary character, notably expressed by striking the hours, quarters and minutes on sapphire gongs. Its original construction, its case in “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold, the excellence of its Poinçon de Genève finishing, and above all its extraordinary sound, contribute to the exceptional nature of a watch in a league of its own. This refined and easy-wear model epitomises the best of the Chopard Manufacture expertise, inventiveness and quality.
The accomplished, expert and versatile Chopard Manufacture has been working for more than six years on its most sophisticated chiming watch to date. The L.U.C collection already included the L.U.C Strike One model launched in 2006, which chimes each striking hour. The collection was subsequently enriched with a minute repeater, entirely developed, produced and assembled by Chopard: the L.U.C Full Strike in “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold. This exceptional watch now appears in a new set of colours with a case in “Fairmined” non rhodium-plated 18-carat white gold, framing a silver-coloured dial. It continues to house a substantial number of technical solutions that make it one of the most innovative minute repeaters on the market.
The L.U.C Full Strike is an exceptional watch that chimes the hours, quarters and minutes on transparent crystal gongs. These sapphire rings are an integral part of the watch glass, which creates a perfect loudspeaker faithfully to diffuse the chimes of the hammers striking the sapphire. This is a unique technical solution which is visible at 10 o’clock and results in a tone of matchless purity that is rich and full, powerful and resonant. The traditional metaphorical description of a sound as “crystal-clear” takes on a very literal meaning here. The L.U.C Full Strike chimes as a silver knife were delicately tapping a Bohemian crystal glass placed on the table of a gourmet restaurant.
Chopard’s watchmaking creativity
Behind this acoustic accomplishment lies one of the most sophisticated and inventive movements ever created by Chopard Manufacture. Almost 17,000 hours of development have been lavished on the development of calibre 08.01-L, which is subjected to three pending patents. Chopard has found all-new in-house responses to historical issues relating to the nature of the gongs, as well as to the operation and ergonomics of the striking system as a whole.
In particular, this movement comprises a series of security systems that protect it from all the inappropriate handling operations that can damage minute repeaters. Its crown serves to wind the movement in one direction, and its striking mechanism in the other. The L.U.C Full Strike thus accumulates enough energy to strike 12:59 – the longest time in the minute repeater repertoire – 12 times. It is equipped with a double power-reserve indicator positioned at 2 o’clock and featuring two superimposed hands respectively indicating the striking-mechanism reserve and the movement’s autonomy.
The true strength of the L.U.C Full Strike resides in the fact that this impressive array of technical prowess goes discreetly unnoticed on the wrist, thanks to a thoroughly refined watch bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Pressing the crown-integrated pusher causes it to chime the hours, quarters and minutes, to the delight of its owner and those around him.
Sapphire endowed with exceptional properties
Transparent sapphire crystal is the material traditionally used for scratch-resistant watch glasses. This very hard and homogenous material also boasts amazing acoustical properties that Chopard has succeeded in leveraging: typical minute repeater gongs are made of steel or gold segments which vibrate when struck, producing their characteristic sound. The L.U.C Full Strike is unique in that it is equipped with sapphire gongs. Moreover, Chopard has opted to step things up a notch, since these gongs form part of a coherent set.
The gongs and watch glass are in fact machined together from a single sapphire block. They thus form a single welding, glue and screw-free entity: a construction that is totally unique in watchmaking history and for which a patent has been filed. In the watch industry, similar to the world of hi-fi audio, breaks in material are detrimental to the transmission of acoustic waves. The perfect physical integrity between the gongs and the watch glass transmits the sound directly outside the watch, with all its strength and its singular personality.
Another proof of sapphire’s versatility is its perfect robustness. Even after tests in which it undergoes one and half million impacts with steel hammers, it does not break. The corollary of this hardness is the extreme difficulty involved in working with it. Machining such a tiny set of parts in such a resistant material, without breaking the connection between the gongs and the watch glass, called for tools that are both powerful and accurate. Machining the gongs/glass set alone required more than three years of development, representing a major technical and human feat.
The strength and purity of sound
The L.U.C Full Strike has its own unique sound signature. The sound it produces is not metallic, cold or abrupt, but instead full-bodied and truly crystal-clear. The gongs are tuned to two notes: C and F. Their chime lingers pleasingly, with a very low sound-deadening factor. The tonal richness boasts unprecedented amplitude, since this is the first time that sapphire is used as a generator. Sapphire also plays the role of acoustic amplifier.
Finally, the L.U.C Full Strike astonishes by the intensity of its chime. This is not a goal in itself for Chopard, which would never seek to achieve it to the detriment of sound quality. Throughout the 16 seconds that the watch takes to strike 12:59, it chimes in a uniform manner, a result that is extremely hard to achieve and in itself represents an important horological accomplishment.
In music, silence is as important as the notes themselves. For a minute repeater, silence is equally important and Chopard has developed the L.U.C Full Strike with this in mind. The rotations of the strike governor – the component that gives the striking mechanism its rhythm – are visible at 8 o’clock. While this part may sometimes emit a humming sound, that of calibre L.U.C 08.01-L is entirely inaudible. While components used for the striking mechanism sometimes make a clicking sound at the end of the tune, the L.U.C Full Strike does no such thing. Finally, it resolves one of the most disturbing problems faced by a minute repeater: the silence between the last hours stroke and the first quarters stroke, which may vary according to the specific quarter-hour to be struck.
In simple terms, the minute repeater sequence comprises one time-window for the hours, another for the quarter-hours and a third for the minutes. A chime is thus generally punctuated by long silences, during which the watch owner must wait and may in fact wonder whether the watch is still working. The structure of calibre L.U.C 08.01-L enables it to skip these silences automatically. Its hours, quarters and minutes gear trains are superimposed and mutually drive each other. When one has completed its task, it automatically triggers the next, maintaining a constant cadence however many strokes are to be chimed subsequently.
The art of composition
Calibre 08.01-L is based on an exceptional construction. A traditional minute repeater is all about levels, with one layer measuring the time and another transforming this time into notes. The extremely thin new L.U.C calibre enables the L.U.C Full Strike to measures just 11.55 mm thick in all, a modest figure for a watch with an over 500-part movement.
On one side of the calibre, the barrel and regulating organ form a timekeeping ensemble with a 60-hour power reserve certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In this respect, the L.U.C Full Strike meets the demands imposed by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, who wanted the L.U.C collection to comprise Haute Horlogerie watches with certified precision. Contrary to tradition, the minute repeater mechanism is placed on the dial side and is thus entirely visible.
The L.U.C Full Strike steel hammers feature an individually modifiable striking force, thus making it possible for the watchmaker to perform fine adjustment of the acoustic intensity.
An original power-reserve indication system
For wind instrument musicians, breath is the basic tool that must be mastered even before the instrument itself. In a minute repeater, endurance is also a decisive factor. The L.U.C Full Strike is equipped with two barrels. Both are equipped with a slipping spring, as used in self-winding movements, in order to ensure that winding operations are not impeded by an overwound spring, and thereby protecting them against any risk of snapping. One stores up the energy required for time measurement and the other for the minute repeater. The L.U.C Full Strike therefore does not draw the energy required for the chime from a winding lever such as is generally found on the caseband. The energy is instead stored in a dedicated barrel enabling the movement to chime “the longest time” (12:59) 12 times in a row. The barrels are recharged by means of a large-diameter 18-carat white gold crown coupled with a differential gear, which transmits the force imparted by the hand towards the appropriate barrel, according to the direction in which the crown is wound.
The L.U.C Full Strike is equipped with a special system for indicating the twin power reserves, composed of two coaxially fitted hands. The first rhodium-plated one indicates the movement power reserve, while the other blued one indicates the number of chimes that can be activated. The latter indication is not there for information purposes only, since it also serves as a basis for one of the many security systems protecting the watch.
Securing the movement
A minute repeater mechanism is a system of interactions that is unparalleled in watchmaking. Numerous movement parts are in motion and this implies equally numerous risks of breakage. Chopard has therefore equipped Calibre 08.01-L with three security devices protecting it from any handling mistakes. The striking mechanism power reserve is coupled with a semi-toothed wheel. When the reserve drops too low, it deactivates the minute repeater chime, thus ensuring that the watch cannot sound fully, due to the lack of energy.
Moreover, in order to maximise the striking mechanism power reserve, an ingenious patented device has been incorporated into the coupling-clutch of Calibre 08.01-L. During coupling and uncoupling, the regulator does not rotate, and only when everything is in its appointed place does the striking mechanism actually consume energy.
During the chime itself, the crown is disconnected from the movement, thereby making it impossible to perform any time-setting that could damage the movement. The activating pusher built into the crown is also deactivated at this time, since a second attempt to trigger the mechanism might otherwise force the striking mechanism coupling-clutch.
Securing the sound
Breakage is not the only kind of risk facing a minute repeater movement, which may also chime imperfectly. Chopard has therefore created additional security devices guaranteeing the regularity of each sound indication. Information is picked up from the snails via the beaks on each rack, but the information is not directly transmitted via these racks as is traditionally the case, but instead via ratchet-wheels that activate gathering-pallets. This principle results in a gear ratio serving to increase security and thus ensure a regular tempo. This arrangement generally used for the hours has been extended to the quarters and minutes in this calibre.
Chopard has also resolved the issue of irregular sound intensity. To avoid the last strikes being too weak, the ratchet-wheels are coaxially arranged so as to ensure the hammers are smoothly and consistently raised and thus maintain their constant striking force on the gongs. Moreover, a flexible link between the hours and quarters ratchet-wheels guarantees a constant tempo between the last hours stroke chimed and the first quarters stroke, however many quarters need to be sounded.
With a total of seven security devices, the L.U.C Full Strike achieves a high degree of sophistication. The watch is preserved from risks of breakage. This omnipresent concern for durability and quality is the unmistakable signature of Chopard Manufacture.
The aura of distinction radiated by L.U.C timepieces
Alongside its inherent horological richness, the L.U.C Full Strike is a supremely elegant watch. In keeping with the L.U.C watch design codes, it features a vertical satin-brushed caseband creating a striking contrast with the polished bezel and case-back. All the inscriptions on the latter are hand-engraved and the case is made from “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold. This label guarantees that Chopard has sourced this gold from a cooperative whose operations are certified as ethical, fair and sustainable.
In addition to this certification, Chopard once again demonstrates its ability to shake up watchmaking customs. The white gold used in this instance is non rhodium-plated. Its glow is guaranteed by the strong presence of palladium in the alloy. Above all, this colour remains perfectly stable over the years.
Measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 11.5 mm thick, this reasonably sized case is graced with beautifully balanced lines. Minute repeaters are generally fitted with a winding lever that supplies the necessary energy to the striking mechanism. The minute repeater of the L.U.C Full Strike is triggered by pressing a pusher coaxial with the crown. The watch is fitted with a double-sided, hand-sewn and plant-dyed CITES-certified alligator leather strap. This means that whether one is admiring the watch from the dial or the movement side, it always appears attired in the same precious leather.
The dial of the L.U.C Full Strike is significantly openworked and thus calls for all the more meticulous care. It is entirely made of solid gold, including the small seconds at 6 o’clock. Its railway-type minute track is engraved beneath the surface of the glass ensemble. Finally, this gold has been given a silver galvanic finishing treatment in order to match the grey shades of the case.
A sense of detail
This close attention devoted to detail applies to the entire L.U.C Full Strike, since both its movement and its case bear the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. This particularly demanding certification implies technical and aesthetic choices that further increase the complexity of the construction and production of the components making up Calibre 08.01-L. For example, it stipulates that springs must not be wires and must have a heel, as well as being decorated. This must be achieved even on those holding the regulator inertia-blocks and measuring just 7/100ths of a millimetre thick.
All the components of Calibre 08.01-L are meticulously finished, be it with circular graining, straight graining or a Côtes de Genève motif. They are all meticulously hand-chamfered. The mainplate and bridges are made from nickel silver, a noble metal that can tolerate no scratches or workmanship errors. This material is non-treated and appears in all its subtly golden grey beauty through the sapphire case-back of the L.U.C Full Strike.
By combining beautiful details and extremely meticulous finishing with a full-bodied, crystal-clear sound, the L.U.C Full Strike single-handedly embodies the full scope of Chopard’s watchmaking competencies. Twenty years after the creation of Chopard Manufacture, it offers an outstanding interpretation of the minute repeater watch that is ideally suited to daily wear and only reveals the full extent of its refinement to an attentive and expert ear – that of a modern gentleman with a penchant for exceptional objects.
Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed in-house at the group's Meyrin and Fleurier production sites. Movement development, finished product design, gold smelting, stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; as well as traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and applied to the making of each watch in the L.U.C collection.
Chopard celebrates the 25th anniversary of its iconic model with a new interpretation uniting its finest skills
Twenty-five years ago, its launch marked the birth of an icon and more; a certain vision of independence, modernity and freedom of movement. Happy Sport now enriches its repertoire of stylistic versatility with the strength of a self-winding movement specially developed by Chopard manufacture. It also adds a precious and delicate touch with a pastel-coloured textured mother-of-pearl dial. Pure technical strength, shimmering under a mantle of light.
Happy Sport, a revolution
In 1993, Chopard Co-President Caroline Scheufele effectively captured the spirit of the times in designing a sports watch based on an original and astounding association between steel and diamonds. Embodying unprecedented audacity, the Happy Sport was born. In harmony with the spirit of the Happy Diamonds that grace its dial, whirling like skaters performing free variations between two sapphire crystals, the Happy Sport soon became a powerful emblem of the Geneva-based Maison and of feminine watchmaking. Ever since, it illustrates an inimitable sense of chic embedded in its DNA. This incredibly alluring style icon plays the mix & match game and revels in combining various genres and repertoires, steel and diamonds, the eternal and the ephemeral.
A manufacture movement: the spirit of time
To celebrate its 25th anniversary, Chopard transports the Happy Sport into a new era: that of an encounter with the other facet of the family-run Maison, the watch manufacture. Chopard has drawn on its watchmaking expertise to endow the Happy Sport with a mechanical self-winding movement, the 09.01-C, exclusively developed for 30 mm ladies’ watch cases. “Having it all” is the perfect motto for the women who choose the Happy Sport. Feminine and technical, playful and radical, precious and modern: through the sheer diversity of its qualities, the icon of the Maison Chopard represents the quintessence of a successful watch model. This creation bears witness to Chopard’s ever more seamless integration of its two centres of excellence – the result of a unique combination of the myriad skills and expertise contributing to the grandeur of Haute Horlogerie and High Jewellery.
Suffused with a soft glow
Technical strength, shimmering under a mantle of light. The Happy Sport makes no concessions. The heart of the dial is suffused with the depth and wealth of textured mother-of-pearl. The soft glow of this exceptional material features the infinitely varied and unique shades drawn from the heart of the shell, sheltering its most precious curves. The silky iridescence of textured mother-of-pearl, its rarity, and the singularity of its naturally occurring wave-like motifs endow each Happy Sport with unique character. This luminous heart framed by a 30-mm case is available in four versions: a blue dial with a gem-set steel case; a pink dial with a steel and 18-carat rose gold case; a white dial with an 18-carat rose gold case; and a white dial with a gem-set 18-carat rose gold case.
A palette of delicate colours echoes the subtle shimmer of textured mother-of-pearl. Soft pastels offer an inexhaustible source of visual delight, where the gaze can linger at leisure. A haven of tenderness to lift the spirit. A gentle celestial blue, an invitation to a land of dreams, where the eye can wander freely in contemplation of the clouds billowing through the imagination. A serene shade of blue. And then of course pink. The pink of a blush, the pink of femininity and the prism of optimism that one adopts to see life at its most beautiful. And finally, an immaculate and timeless white, the meeting point of all wavelengths, fulfilling our desire for gentleness and our quest for balance with its pristine radiance.
These chromatic landscapes are enlivened by the mesmerising presence of five moving diamonds that appear to be whirling above the dial, feather-light and supremely innocent. Happy Diamonds offer wearers of the Happy Sport watch the perpetual sight of an infinite dance, echoing their every movement. A pas de deux, a single momentum and a sole horizon: that of freedom and joie de vivre.