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Breguet Classique

For its new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395, Breguet has opted for an extra-thin three-millimeter thick skeleton design for its tourbillon movement. An undertaking that is as much technical as it is artistic with emphasis on craftsmanship, of which the watchmaker is at the forefront.

There are objects whose intrinsic quality is a source of true wonder. The new Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is undoubtedly one of those. The extreme finesse of its 581 caliber has already propelled Breguet to bold technical feats in its previous creations. The design of the tourbillon in particular had to be entirely rethought, which led to the creation of a unique architecture. Now the House of Breguet is going even further, removing almost 50 per cent of the material from this movement, without compromising the build. This skeleton design, within an 18-karat gold caliber that literally plays with the limits of what is possible, highlights the true craftsmanship of Breguet watchmakers. Engraving, engine-turning, and anglage add to this to create something truly outstanding.

An Extra-Thin Movement

The extra-thin 581 caliber is a masterpiece of watchmaking. With a thickness of three millimeters, it is one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world. A feat of technical craftsmanship that required a series of often complex adjustments. For instance, the rotor was placed on the periphery of the plate, saving on thickness while at the same time preserving a clear view of the mechanism. The tourbillon, for its part, has benefited from a complete redesign. The titanium carriage engages directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base, and, what’s more, the silicon escapement has been given a distinct angled shape, something that considerably saves on space. A very unique structure, of which Breguet is the only series manufacturer.

Lightness and Transparency

Ultra-lightweight – the carriage weighs no more than 0.290 grams in total – and equipped with an outstanding power reserve of 80 hours thanks to a high-energy barrel beating at four hertz – a particularly high frequency for a tourbillon – this 581 caliber already featured in models 5377 and 5367. Here, for the first time, it has been incorporated in a fully skeletonized design, a contemporary interpretation of this ancestral technique. The gold plate and bridges have been hollowed out so as to display the mechanical anatomy of the movement. The challenge of this undertaking lies primarily in removing as much material as possible, while preserving the technical properties of the various different components. A truly novel watchmaking complication made even more challenging by the choice of gold. Once the chosen alloy has hardened, sophisticated expertise and care are needed to achieve the final result. Breguet is one of the last watchmakers to fashion gold to this standard.

 Craftsmanship

What is unique about the movement, however, is its outstanding decoration and finishing – first of all, the hand-crafted engine-turning, or guilloche design, of the remaining plate surface. Clous de Paris hobnailing is created using a diamond-tipped guilloche tool here, a method that gives this work of art a distinct splendor but allows for no imperfections. This kind of work on an item like this is a first at Breguet. The sharp edges are painstakingly chamfered by hand, using a file until a perfectly smooth and even 45-degree bevel is created. Significant engraving work is then carried out by hand for different inscriptions as well as borders to frame the holes.

 A Sophisticated and Minimalist Design

This masterpiece sits in a fluted case topped with a domed glass-box revealing the movement. The sapphire dial features applied hour markers in blued gold. The hours chapter is created using galvanic growth and the timer is laser-engraved and filled with blue varnish. Sophisticated and minimalist, this design is rounded off with traditional blued moon-tipped hands and soldered horns in the true Breguet style. Water-resistant to 30 meters, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a gray movement in a rose gold case, or with a rose movement in a platinum case.

 The Tourbillon, a Breguet Masterpiece

It’s a one-off in the history of technical creations. More than 220 years after its invention, the tourbillon is still generating as much fascination as it did then and remains, now more than ever, Breguet’s main prerogative. Updated for modern times following its adaptation for wristwatches, its distinct and inalienable strength lies in the historical legitimacy of Breguet that gives it that extra touch of soul. Single or double, by itself or accompanied by sophisticated complications, fashioned from traditional or novel materials, the tourbillon has never been more alive than it is now. Nor has it ever been so closely associated with its inventor. Present in almost all collections and never weighing more than one gram, it bears testament to the extraordinary watchmaking mastery of the House of Breguet, the guardian of the myth.

The Origins of the Tourbillon

Abraham-Louis Breguet only sold 35 tourbillon watches in his lifetime. This confidential figure in itself hints at the extreme complexity involved in producing this unique mechanism. While patented in 1801, its development took no less than 10 years of experimentation and research in the years spanning from 1795 to 1805. At a time when timepieces were worn vertically on the body, the master watchmaker took great pains to devise a way of negating the effects of the earth’s attraction on the functioning of the oscillator and, on the basis of this, improving the chronometric accuracy of the movement. Then the idea came to him to incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile casing rotating on itself. Breguet devised the name “tourbillon” for the double rotation of this cage and its parts in reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system rotating around a single axis. Fantastic in its design, captivating in its function, the invention has never ceased to command respect, right from when it was first presented to the present day.

BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT SQUELETTE 5395 SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH REF. 5395BR/1S/9WU

Case in 18-karat rose gold with delicately fluted caseband with a domed glass-box. Sapphire-crystal caseback. Diameter 41 millimeters. Thickness 7.70 millimeters. Welded lugs with screw bars. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters). Sapphire dial, signed Breguet. Offset hours chapter with Roman numerals. Open-tipped Breguet hands in blued steel. Mechanical self-winding skeleton movement, chamfered, engraved, and engine-turned by hand. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 581SQ extra-thin (3 millimeters). 325 components. 16 lignes. 33 jewels. Peripheral rotor. 80-hour power reserve. Barrel on ball-bearing rollers. Reverse-side lever escapement with silicon horns. Frequency 4 hertz. Flat balance spring in silicon. Breguet balance wheel. Titanium tourbillon carriage. Small seconds on the tourbillon axis. Alligator leather strap with gold folding buckle. Also available in platinum: Reference 5395PT/RS/9WU

https://www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/classique

The Marine by Breguet embodies a desire to travel the seas, and be carried by the winds and currents. Breguet dedicates this collection to modern-day women explorers.

Leaning on a wealth of watchmaking know-how, the House of Breguet unveils the Marine watch collection for women, inspired by our oceans. As a specialist in guillochage (or engineturning), Breguet has designed an original motif that reflects the flow of waves on the dial. The second hand, as one of several details echoing the marine world, is decorated with a maritime flag representing the initial of Breguet.

True to Breguet’s tradition, this collection combines refinement with technical performance. This watch beats to the rhythm of the self-winding 591A caliber, a manufacture movement 3.41 millimeters thick with a date display. The Marine will fit even the finest of wrists: flexible strap fasteners extend from the case with a diameter of less than 34 millimeters.

Available in steel as well as rose or white gold, the Marine also features precious variations, with the bezel ringed and illuminated by diamonds. For the gold models, the diamond setting is continued on the bevel of the rotor and the crown protection, bringing the total to 1.26 carats. Depending on the variant, the Marine dial is adorned with an ocean-blue lacquer with light reflections, or with polished or engine-turned mother-of-pearl.

A Craft Inspired by the Sea

The engine-turning artisans of the House of Breguet have created a unique design evoking the sea as it laps the shore. This pattern, called marea, or tide, incorporates curves; in contrast to the classic guillochage, which consists of straight lines and circles, the curves in this design capture the natural movement of the water. The development of the marea pattern took several months, including the manufacture of special cams for the engine-turning lathes. The
artisans of the House of Breguet have made this demanding design come alive on motherof-pearl, a particularly fragile material, which graces the dial and rotor of the movement for this collection.

Nautical Aesthetics

The new Breguet Marine collection for women is a celebration of the marine world in many aspects. The Roman numerals resemble nautical pennants. For use at night, the open tips of the hands, the five-minute markings, and the hour markers are coated with luminescent material.

The sapphire-crystal caseback shows the self-winding 591A caliber and its bars decorated with double engine-turned côtes de Genève calling to mind a ship’s deck boards. The words Horloger de la Marine (Chronograph-maker to the Navy) are engraved on the rim of the case, referring to the title of Chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy bestowed upon Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1815.

Breguet has also reworked the flutes on the sides of the case. This new design, more distinct and spaced, lends the watch – barely one centimeter thick – a more daring look. The crown protection, diamond-set on gold pieces, appears like a wave at 3 o’clock. Screws in the shape of navigational markers provide a flexible hold for the strap fasteners.

Another motif – on the white rubber strap – created for the collection involves seagrass arabesques. This plant is known to be found on the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea, and to help keep the water clean. This strap, for a sportier lifestyle look, is available alongside alligator leather straps in midnight blue or white, depending on the model. A sapphire cap marked with the letter ‘B’ for Breguet adorns the clasp of the folding buckle.

Beauties of the Sea

Marine Dame 9518 Diamond-Set in Rose or White Gold

The Marine is available set in white or rose gold, with dials enlivened by engine-turned mother-of-pearl in the marea style. The white-gold version is adorned with pale-blue motherof-pearl, while the rose-gold variant features opaline mother-of-pearl. Depending on the model, the rotor is decorated with engine-turned mother-of-pearl of the same color, and also inlaid. The bezel is illuminated by a setting of 50 brilliant-cut diamonds. Their sparkle extends to the strap fastenings and the crown protection.

Marine Dame 9517 in Steel and Marine Dame 9518 in Diamond-Set Steel

The House of Breguet also offers the Marine in steel and inlaid steel. The dials of these models are done in natural opaline mother-of-pearl or marbled blue lacquer, animated by clearer volutes reminiscent of the white-horses of the sea – or a starlit night sky, which was used for navigation in former times. To achieve this decor, the artisan applies a clear lacquer on the still liquid azure material. When they come into contact, the colors marbleize and create a unique image, thus rendering each piece exclusive. Visible by the sapphire-crystal caseback, the rotor bears the engine-turned marea motif in mother-of-pearl – in azure or white, depending on the shade of the dial. The bezel of the inlaid-steel variant is enlivened by 60 brilliant-cut diamonds.

As early as in the 18th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet created watches for daring women. Today, dedicated to the modern adventurer, the Marine by Breguet evokes an exhilarating sense of adventure at sea.

BREGUET MARINE DAME 9518 SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH:

Case: Round, rose-gold case (18 carats) with a
fluted caseband. Sapphire-crystal caseback. Bezel
set with 50 diamonds weighing approximately
1.165 carats. Crown protection set with
6 diamonds. Diameter 33.80 millimeters. Waterresistant to 5 bar (50 meters).
Dial: White mother-of-pearl, engine-turned in
the marea style. Individually numbered and
signed Breguet. Luminescent hour markers and
markings. Faceted open-tipped gold Breguet
hands with luminescent material. Second hand in
the center. Date at 3 o’clock. Date window in
gold.
Movement: Mechanical self-winding movement,
numbered and signed Breguet. 11½ lignes.
25 jewels. Caliber 591A with indication of date.
38-hour power reserve. Rotor in 18-carat gold
decorated with engine-turned mother-of-pearl,
set with 31 diamonds. Frequency 4 hertz. Silicon
in-line Swiss lever escapement. Flat balance
spring in silicon. Breguet balance wheel. 219
components including the diamonds on the
rotor.
Strap: Leather strap with a gold buckle

BREGUET MARINE DAME 9517 SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH:

Case: Round steel case with fluted caseband.
Sapphire-crystal caseback. Diameter
33.80 millimeters. Water-resistant to 5 bar
(50 meters).
Dial: White mother-of-pearl. Individually
numbered and signed Breguet. Luminescent hour
markers and markings. Faceted open-tipped gold
Breguet hands with luminescent material. Second
hand in the center. Date at 3 o’clock. Date
window in gold.
Movement: Mechanical self-winding movement,
numbered and signed Breguet. 11½ lignes.
25 jewels. Caliber 591A with indication of date.
38-hour power reserve. Rotor in 18-carat gold
decorated with engine-turned mother-of-pearl.
Frequency 4 hertz. Silicon in-line Swiss lever
escapement. Flat balance spring in silicon.
Breguet balance wheel. 188 components.
Strap: Rubber strap with a steel buckle.

BREGUET MARINE DAME 9518 SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH:

Case: Round steel case with fluted caseband.
Sapphire-crystal caseback. Bezel set with
60 diamonds weighing approximately 0.846
carats. Diameter 33.80 millimeters. Waterresistant to 5 bar (50 meters).
Dial: Blue lacquer. Individually numbered and
signed Breguet. Luminescent hour markers and
markings. Faceted open-tipped gold Breguet
hands with luminescent material. Second hand in
the center. Date at 3 o’clock. Date window in
gold.
Movement: Mechanical self-winding movement,
numbered and signed Breguet. 11½ lignes.
25 jewels. Caliber 591A with indication of date.
38-hour power reserve. Rotor in 18-carat gold
decorated with engine-turned mother-of-pearl.
Frequency 4 hertz. Silicon in-line Swiss lever
escapement. Flat balance spring in silicon.
Breguet balance wheel. 188 components.
Strap: Leather strap with a steel buckle

www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/classique

Breguet Classique

With iridescent mother-of-pearl and its clean lines, the new Classique 9068 watch embodies the Breguet style in a creation designed for women.

Presented for the first time with a natural mother-of-pearl dial, the Classique 9068 emphasizes the style of Breguet’s watchmaking art. Abraham-Louis Breguet set up a business in Paris in 1775. He was opposed to the baroque style then in vogue, lending his mechanical reliability – attracted prestigious clients, including Queen Marie-Antoinette, and later the Empresses Joséphine and Marie-Louise, as well as the Duchess of Wellington. Reflecting that same quest for simplicity, the dial of the new Classique model comes alive with white mother-of-pearl on a fine rose or white gold case. To add to the splendor, 88 brilliant-cut diamonds illuminate the gold of the bezel and lugs of the bracelet. The model beats to the rhythm of a self-winding manufacture caliber with the essential functions – the
second hand in the center and the date window at 3 o’clock.

Birth of a Style in Paris

As a young watchmaker from Switzerland, Abraham-Louis Breguet moved to Paris, setting up his workshop on the Quai de l’Horloge, in 1775. That location – close to the district of goldsmiths, dial-makers, and manufacturers of hands and cases – proved to be an ideal setting for him to practice his craft. The City of Lights was where he was able to fully express his talent. Even today, many places bear witness to the presence of Abraham-Louis Breguet, and that of his descendants. Rue Breguet is a street named after him to pay tribute to his watchmaking genius, and his name, along with other famous names, is inscribed on the Eiffel Tower. The Breguet Museum at Place Vendôme, the Musée des Arts et des Métiers, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and the Louvre exhibit many creations by A.-L. Breguet.

Signed Breguet

Watch No. 3023, a small, quarter-repeating watch sold to the Duchess of Wellington in 1817, is on display at the Louvre. Two centuries apart, the same style continues to inspire the Classique line of Breguet. In 1783, for example, Abraham-Louis Breguet designed slender, open-tipped hands for improved readability. These characteristic hands are found on the dial of the Breguet Classique 9068 – blued or in rose gold, depending on the model. Always concerned with improving readability, Breguet chose to use Roman hour markers. A guillochage border, a specialty of the House of Breguet, subtly highlights the hours chapter. Finally, the dial also displays the name Breguet, as well as the individual number of the watch. The owner of the watch can have her name added to the Breguet register, which was started in the 1780s and has been updated continuously since, together with the description of her watch.

A Perpetual Caliber

The Breguet Classique 9068 watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, the 591A. This caliber, which is wound up by wrist movement, is in line with the self-winding watches developed by A.-L. Breguet. At the time, several watchmakers were looking to solve the issue of automatic winding. Breguet was the first to find a reliable technical solution when he developed the oscillating weight. The sapphire-crystal caseback of the new model reveals
this ingenious component: in rose or white gold, depending on the model, and handengraved on a rose engine. Thanks to the talent of the artisans of the House of Breguet, experts in anglage, circular graining, and the cotes de Geneve, the caliber has been entirely decorated.

The watch movement fits into a delicate case with fluted sides in the Breguet style. The crown – capped with a blue cabochon-cut sapphire or a ruby – is also fluted to ensure a better grip. The leather bracelet is secured by lugs, welded for strength and curved for wearing comfort.

With elegant simplicity, the Breguet Classique 9068 embodies the Breguet style.
An inimitable hallmark, as Henry Murger observed in his 1848 book Les Scènes de la vie de bohème (Scenes of Bohemian Life):
Rodolphe found Mademoiselle Laure at the trysting place.
Good, said he, for punctuality she is a feminine Breguet.

SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH BREGUET CLASSIQUE 9068:

Case: 18-karat white gold with delicately fluted caseband. Bezel and lugs inlaid with 88 brilliantcut diamonds (approximately 0.606 carats). Crown set with a blue sapphire. Sapphire-crystal caseback. Diameter 33.50 millimeters. Thickness 7.55 millimeters. Welded lugs with screw bars. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters).
Dial: White mother-of-pearl. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Hours chapter with Roman numerals. Second hand in the center, and date at 3 o’clock. Date window in white gold. Open-tipped Breguet hands in blued steel.
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement. Numbered and signed Breguet. Caliber 591A. 11½ lignes. 25 jewels. 38-hour power reserve. 187 components. Silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement. Balance spring in silicon.
Frequency 4 hertz. Adjusted in 6 positions.
Leather strap: Dark blue satin effect alligator leather strap with white gold pin buckle.

www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/classique