Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II

GPHG 2020 “Petite Aiguille” – Nomination: Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II

A New Rainbow to Honor Our Frontline Heroes

Breitling’s Limited-Edition Watch Supports Healthcare Professionals Tackling COVID‑19

In April this year, Breitling introduced a watch that attracted enormous attention. The Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition was launched during the brand’s first-ever Summit Webcast which, because of the pandemic and lockdowns, was streamed globally. The Summit audience saw its rainbow-inspired design elements as symbols of hope and optimism, and the overwhelmingly positive feedback led Breitling to launch a second edition, this time with a blue dial, limited to 1000 pieces. Part of the proceeds from the watch are being donated to charities supporting the frontline healthcare workers in some of the most affected countries. Breitling is also donating an additional CHF 1000 to these charities for each of the first 100 Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II watches sold via Breitling. In total, Breitling will donate CHF 500,000.

Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II

The Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II supports a great cause. As is often the case with Breitling, it all started with a superb watch and a compelling story. In April, Breitling introduced its first Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition. The reactions were overwhelmingly positive. Released as the pandemic was spreading across the globe, the watch was unveiled during the Breitling Summit Webcast, and the international audience saw its colorful design elements as a beacon of hope and a positive reference to the rainbows that have become symbols of support for frontline healthcare professionals.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein

GPHG 2020 Challenge – Nomination: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein

Strength, resilience, sweet revenge and a happy marriage. These are the first words that come to mind on seeing this exceptional watch. The piece will be instantly recognisable to connoisseurs and collectors of Alain Silberstein, who will appreciate the exceptional character of the collaboration with Louis Erard and will savour the return of the designer to the mid-range sector. The general public will be surprised to see a Swiss-quality complication watch designed in such an expressive style, attributable to this designer who has been famous since the 1980s, and at such an accessible price.

While on the surface it may appear fun and light, this limited edition of 178 watches has hidden depth. It reflects the strategy of the Louis Erard brand, more focused than ever on its vocation as an independent watchmaker dedicated to excellence in the making of accessible watches. It also represents a new stage in the company’s growth, which has just begun.

The watch’s design starts with the mechanics: the brand’s regulator, an exclusive calibre made for Louis Erard. This complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision. This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy, explains Alain Spinedi, director: “We have always positioned ourselves at the entry point to the market of Swiss mechanical excellence. The regulator is the perfect example of this tradition.”

For Alain Silberstein, the regulator is also a technical, aesthetic and philosophical essential: “All my work is guided by reading the time and my inspiration always come from the movement.” For him, the regulator is the centrepiece, a model for the breaking down of time focused on the central minute hand. However, this complication had escaped him: during his 40 years of creating watches, he had never made a regulator. Therefore, his partnership with Louis Erard was a natural step.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein

The regulator, says Alain Silberstein, transports him far away to the clocks on buildings which historically told the time with just one hand, or to train station clocks. This is what inspired his regulator.

His design starts with the central minute hand, reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow, large and yellow. This minute hand points to simple lines like those on the train station clocks that were his inspiration. The rest is designed in the same style of geometric simplicity: rectangle, triangle, circle. Reflecting Alain Silberstein’s signature style, the hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement, a way for Louis Erard to pay tribute to the birthplace of modernism, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year.

The final piece is a celebration, the perfect allegory for the joyful spirit of strength which has always inspired Louis Erard: an independent brand founded in 1929 and which has always succeeded in making a place for itself, whatever the market conditions.

GPHG 2020 Jewellery – Nomination: Chopard Magari

“Magari” Jewellery Watch – A work of art from the Red Carpet Collection

Among the 73 treasures of the emblematic Red Carpet Collection that Chopard designs every year as part of its official partnership with the Cannes Film Festival, the “Magari” automatic jewellery watch vividly testifies to the Maison’s love for the most beautiful diamonds drawn from Earth’s natural bounty.

The creative soul of Chopard and initiator of its Journey to Sustainable Luxury, Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele celebrates the wonders of Nature through the new Red Carpet Collection. Among the 73 Haute Joaillerie creations composing this precious casket – a number honouring the 73rd Cannes Film Festival which should have been held in 2020 – the “Magari” jewellery watch pays tribute to on exceptional gemstones.

Chopard Magari

Thanks to their unique expertise, the artisans of the Geneva-based Maison have adorned the dial of this 40-hour power reserve automatic timepiece with a subtle corolla of pear-shaped diamonds totalling over 32 carats. Respectively set at 12 and 6 o’clock, a vivid pink and a vivid blue pear-shaped diamond of two carats each enhance this timepiece with an aura of purity and nobility. They have been specially selected for their brilliance and unique colours, spectacularly highlighted by their association with the white diamonds with which the rest of this jewellery watch is clad.

The dial is graced with meticulous micro-gemsetting, while the bracelet is also entirely paved with diamonds, resembling a river with its sparkling reflections running along the wrist. A tribute to the beauty of Nature and a dialogue with light, the entire “Magari” jewellery watch is made of ethical 18-carat white gold reflecting Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury.

In Chopard’s Geneva workshops, more than 30 talented artisans have combined their talents in pushing the limits of feasibility – from lines to volumes, from goldsmithing to precious stones – to give life to the jewellery composing the prestigious Red Carpet Collection.

Bovet 1822 Amadéo Tourbillon

GPHG 2020 Artistic Crafts – Nomination: Amadéo Tourbillon Squelette 7 Jours

Tourbillon Squelette Fleurisanne

In 2013, Bovet unveiled its Amadéo Fleurier 7-day Skeleton Tourbillon for the collectors delight. Motivated by this success, the House is proud to launch in 2020 a limited edition of 10 pieces with an aventurine dial.

A first glance at this timepiece gives a clear idea of the efforts that must have been expanded by the watchmakers in achieving such a result without making too many technical concessions. This is particularly true given the vulnerable and delicate nature of open-worked movements and their escapement. Engraving artisans traditionally receive sets of openworked bridges and mainplates and decorate their surfaces by following the cut out shapes. In this case however, Pascal Raffy and his teams took a different approach to this timepiece in order to achieve aesthetic excellence without reducing its reliability and its precision-timing performances.

Bovet 1822 Amadéo Tourbillon

Hours and hours of observation would not suffice to discover each subtle feature, each detail or each stroke of genius – such as that of engraving the plates on both sides. The skeleton Amadéo Tourbillon remains a truly astonishing timepiece that can be worn daily with hours, minutes and a 7-day power reserve.

Reversible and with the amazing versatility of the Amadéo patented system, the new Amadéo Tourbillon will mesmerize with its new aventurine dial on the second face.

Bovet 1822 Amadéo Tourbillon
Angelus U40 Tourbillon x JJ

Angelus announces new Friend of the Brand, Minnesota Vikings Wide Receiver Justin Jefferson, and his new customized Angelus U40 timepiece

Minnesota Vikings rookie Wide Receiver Justin Jefferson has captured the interest of NFL and sports lovers worldwide. From all accounts, the LSU alumnus and first-round draft pick has the potential to become one of the leading NFL players of the next generation. This up-and-comer has a reputation for precision, performance, and agility, traits shared by Swiss watchmaker Angelus.

Jefferson, a dedicated watch enthusiast, was drawn to the watchmaker’s sporty, skeletonized luxury timepieces, leading his team to approach Angelus to create a custom timepiece. The agile luxury watchmaker rose to the challenge, and Justin Jefferson now proudly sports a new Angelus U40 tourbillon timepiece custom-crafted in purple and yellow colors and inscribed with his name.

Angelus U40 Tourbillon

Justin Jefferson, Minnesota Vikings Wide Receiver: “Angelus watches really appeal to my style. They are sporty and built for performance, but at the same time, they are also crafted with extreme precision. I really enjoyed the custom design process which helped me better understand all the many parts and steps that go into making a complicated and high-quality luxury timepiece.”

Bertrand Savary, Angelus President: “When you watch Justin move down the field, you see performance, power, and style at its best: attributes that we try to bring to every Angelus timepiece design and mechanism. It is my great pleasure to welcome Justin Jefferson as an official Angelus Friend of the Brand and to grow our friendship together.”

Angelus U40 Tourbillon

Like Jefferson, Angelus demonstrates the house’s manufacturing adaptability and expertise with hands-on customizations, a service that the brand is proud to offer through authorized Angelus retailers. Collectors can work with the manufacturer to customize a U40 or other Angelus watch model to their taste with simple aesthetic changes, such as to a strap or case, or more involved customizations like case engravings, custom painted hands and indexes, or even personalization of the movement.

Angelus U40 Tourbillon x JJ

It is no wonder that Justin Jefferson gravitated to the U40 model, which has proven to be one of the brand’s most popular models. The limited-edition U40 collection houses an A-300 mechanical hand-wound movement within a 42 mm titanium case, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. The skeletonized caliber reveals the one-minute flying tourbillon with perfect clarity at 6 o’clock, orbiting at breathtaking speed, surrounded by black ADLC coated bridges.  A rubber strap contributes to its athletic appeal.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Black

GPHG 2020 Chronograph – Nomination: Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Black

The manufacture reimagines its Tonda collection to create a sportier, everyday watch

A sporty and competitive timepiece for this new line available on a polished and satin-finished.

The Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF043 automatic caliber and combines two of watchmaking’s most useful complications- an annual calendar and a chronograph. This is an uncommon combination and once again Parmigiani Fleurier fills a void in the watchmaking world by presenting them together at a level of quality seldom rivaled, and yet, with an exceptional price. The dial displays a wealth of information and remains legible: it has delta-shaped hands with black luminescent coating indicating hours and minutes, a small second, two subdials for the chronograph function, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock. To draw attention to the annual calendar function, the date and month are displayed in a vibrant orange color. This impressive watch is water resistant to 100m, has a screw-down crown, a 45-hour power reserve, and is finely finished with Côtes de Genève stripes visible through the open caseback. The Tondagraph GT is limited to 200 pieces.

“This is yet another step forward for Parmigiani Fleurier as it continues to evolve and innovate,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. “The new Tonda GT line, with its more casual shape and attractive price point, reflects current market needs and is, at the same time, distinctively Parmigiani.”

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Black
Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn

GPHG 2020 Diver’s Watch – Nomination: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn


The Toughest Watch for the Most Merciless Challenge: the Vendee Globe Race

The Vendée Globe is the world’s most daunting open-ocean race and Ulysse Nardin has risen to the challenge by creating the peerless Diver X Cape Horn.

In the spirit that unites Ulysse Nardin with the explorers and fearless adventurers of the world, the Swiss manufacture, located in Le Locle near Neuchatel, has partnered with the Vendée Globe to sponsor the world’s most challenging sailing race. UN has created the DIVER X CAPE HORN – a watch bringing the X-factor to tackle world’s roughest seas – in honor of the sailors who choose to risk everything by taking this daunting, dangerous challenge.

Diver X Cape Horn


Cape Horn, one of the land points the Vendée Globe sailors must pass by on their voyage around the world, is one of the most treacherous routes. As they navigate around the southernmost tip of Chile, skippers face icebergs, violent winds and dangerous currents, making this one of the most confrontational chapters in the renowned round-the-world race. As they circumnavigate the globe, the passage around Cape Horn is one of the most harrowing because, as the point at which the Pacific and Atlantic oceans meet, nature unleashes an array of furies, each more precarious than the next. The geographical coordinates of Cape Horn as well as the route of the Vendée Globe race are stamped on the back of each watch.

With its saffron burnt orange stitching on the strap to recall the Spice Route or the harrowing trip around Tierra del Fuego, carbon bezel and instantly recognizable “X” on the face, the Ulysse Nardin Diver X CAPE HORN – the official watch of the Vendée Globe – will be issued in a limited edition of 300 pieces only. Its UN-118 movement guarantees accuracy in any hemisphere at any time of the day or night. The fabric strap is made from cutting-edge technology closing scratch: adjustable yet light, this material pairs magnificently with the ultra-light, carbon face. The satin black “X” is boldly stamped 6-12 in relief across the face.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

GPHG 2020 Calendar & Astronomy – Nomination: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

The Overseas collection is enriching its range with a new territory to explore. The prestige of a precious metal case and bracelet is now complemented by the extreme sophistication of an openworked movement that is also ultra-thin and houses a perpetual calendar, giving the timepiece a contemporary and horologically sophisticated look.

In this new gold-clad version, Vacheron Constantin highlights the expression of Haute Horlogerie values. While retaining its dynamic design, the aesthetic of the timepiece is transfigured by a sapphire dial inviting observers on a journey to the heart of the extremely thin 4.05 mm openworked perpetual calendar movement.

Complexity transcending the complication itself

Much appreciated by collectors for its reliability, its extreme precision and its performance, self-winding Calibre 1120 QPSQ is now joining the Overseas collection in a new guise. Entirely openworked, which is a feat in itself, it reveals its mechanical intricacies beneath a sapphire crystal. The transparent caseback also stages a fascinating watchmaking show starring the gear trains and the NAC-treated oscillating weight with its segment in 22K gold, which is also openworked for the first time in the Overseas collection so as to highlight its stylised design shaped like a Maltese cross.

Skeletonisation is regarded by connoisseurs as a watchmaking complication in itself and is indeed a speciality during watchmaking training. This technique, which consists of finely openworking a mechanical movement by hollowing out its components yet without compromising their reliability, is an extremely complex undertaking: a quest for transparency coupled with highly sophisticated skills mastered by very few watchmaking artisans.

Today, Vacheron Constantin is one of the rare Manufactures capable of openworking calibres as complex as perpetual calendars and ultra-thin movements. All components of the 1120 QPSQ calibre have been hollowed out, finished and decorated, so as to exalt the functional beauty of the mechanism.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

The peak of artisanal watchmaking expertise

To fully match the style of Overseas, the movement has benefited from special finishing work, entirely performed by hand. Multiple skills have thus come into play so as to endow the mechanism with the sought-after aesthetic perfection. Straight-graining the surfaces to give them a satin-brushed finish; bevelling straight lines and curves to make the create light effects; circular b rushing, s unburst finishing, circular-graining and polishing to ensure varied reliefs: while the use of all these ancestral craftsmanship techniques has served to highlight the beauty of the components, an anthracite grey shade obtained by means of an NAC electrolytic treatment gives the mechanism a very modern face. The dial bears applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers, the Maltese cross emblem as well as day, date and month-counter rings. This design ensures that the watch is perfectly legible while allowing the gaze to roam freely through the heart of the movement and admire its hand-crafted finishing.

A calendar requiring no adjustment until 2100

While watches with simple calendars – indicating the day, date and month – require constant adjustments according to months with 28, 29 and 30 days, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch will not require any intervention until March 1, 2100. Achieving such a performance with a movement that slim – yet housing 276 components – called for authentic feats of design and miniaturisation.

The freedom of personalisation

Like all models in the Overseas collection, this exceptional watch offers a modular touch via a simple and convenient bracelet/strap interchangeability system. Fitted with a gold bracelet whose satin-brushed half Maltese cross-shaped links underline the elegance of the timepiece, it also comes with two additional straps in blue alligator leather and blue rubber.

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

GPHG 2020 Mechanical Exception – Nomination: MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

The world’s fastest triple-axis regulating mechanism


– First-ever collaboration between legends Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen.

– Proprietary new ‘TriAx’ mechanism features 3 axes revolving at different speeds and on different planes, in record-breaking 8 seconds, 12 seconds and 20 seconds.

– Unique combination of Potter escapement, hemispherical balance and helical hairspring.

Meteorological science tells us that when cold and warm currents meet, all manner of dramatic weather ensues. Storms, freak atmospheric conditions and even tornadoes have been known to follow. So when two very different master watchmakers come together – one a legendary innovator from the Vallée de Joux known for his unorthodox, jaw-dropping complications, the other a famed perfectionist and acclaimed pillar of traditional craft based in Môtiers – look out for lightning on the horizon.

Presenting the Legacy Machine Thunderdome, jointly signed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen.

Rising above a sea of blue guillochage is a rotating spherical mass of gears, pinions and cages. Somehow, from this chaos of motion, order is extracted. Time is indicated on an inclined dial of stretched lacquer, proving that even the wildest horological whirlwinds can be tamed into the logic of hours and minutes.

MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser says, “One of the many things that makes me incredibly happy about this piece is that we got to bring together two people I adore in this industry; who are incredibly talented, have completely different styles and personalities, and have never had the chance to work with each other”.

Once taken, such chances can reshape entire landscapes. MB&F’s only directive to Eric Coudray initially was to “make the craziest, most cinematic three-axis tourbillon ever.” Having been given free rein to create, Coudray built something that was entirely new in his experience: a mechanism that goes beyond the tourbillon, the proprietary new MB&F ‘TriAx’.

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

The new TriAx mechanism, as showcased in Legacy Machine Thunderdome, fulfils MB&F’s directive to Eric Coudray in spectacular fashion. The triple-axis rotating escapement has a stripped-down construction that transgresses both tradition and modern convention. Instead of the rational (and cumbersome) system that associates one cage with each rotational axis, the TriAx defies logic with a three-axis, two-cage configuration that allows for unprecedented visibility of the Thunderdome’s beating, whirling heart.

In a second stroke of whirlwind audacity from Coudray – whose name is practically synonymous with audacious watchmaking in the 21st century – the TriAx mechanism of LM Thunderdome uproots our most familiar notions of watchmaking escapements. Controlling the rate at which energy escapes from the barrel is the unusual Potter escapement, which utilises a fixed escape wheel in place of the mobile escape wheels seen in virtually every type of modern rotating escapement. The fixed escape wheel of the Potter escapement – named for 19th-century watchmaker and inventor Albert H. Potter – allows for higher rotational speeds in such a mechanism.

Integrating a fixed escape wheel within a tri-axial rotating mechanism is something that has never been done before, but LM Thunderdome achieves this, and for good reason. The high-speed rotation consumes energy voraciously, with the innermost structure completing one turn in 8 seconds, the intermediate cage rotating once every 12 seconds, and the outermost cage making one full rotation every 20 seconds.

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

An additional advantage of the Potter escapement is that it frees up more space for the balance and hairspring, allowing to better admire another completely novel development: the balance of LM Thunderdome takes a hemispherical form, wrapping around the helical hairspring for an unprecedented configuration of regulating organ in both modern and classical watchmaking.

Even for a seasoned watch connoisseur, deeply familiar with multi-axis tourbillons over the 15 years since this type of mechanism debuted on the horological scene, Legacy Machine Thunderdome is an eye-opener. Not only is it faster, its components whirring past at dizzying speeds – it is larger, thanks to the offset axis of the outermost cage that increases the overall displacement of the balance, and it is showcased like no other. The pronounced arch of the sapphire crystal dome allows Eric Coudray’s opus to sit fully above the dial plate, visible from all sides.

As difficult as it may be to tear your eyes from the dial-side spectacle, the reverse of the LM Thunderdome engine is equally rewarding. The manual-winding, triple-barrel movement may have been technically conceived by Eric Coudray, but its aesthetics are fully Kari Voutilainen.

Countless sessions passed between the two watchmakers until the untrammelled dynamism of Coudray’s engine design took on classically elegant forms. Smoothly rounded bridges, incorporating sharp hand-bevelled internal angles and mirrored curves suggest a deep, unyielding calm that anchors the turbulent maelstrom on the other side. For the first time in an MB&F creation, Kari Voutilainen has applied his proprietary style of finish onto the ratchet wheels. This technique imparts a serpentine shimmer to the circular surface, catching the light in sigmoid waves. This technique is a closely guarded secret in the Voutilainen workshops, requiring years of experience and special tools to execute.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph

GPHG 2020 Iconic Watches – Nomination: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph

The Portugieser Chronograph Story

The Portugieser Chronograph is one of IWC Schaffhausen’s most iconic models. With its compact diameter of 41 millimetres, it fits almost any wrist. However, the thin bezel gives the impression of wearing a significantly larger timepiece. The clear, functional dial boasts applied Arabic numerals and slender Feuille hands. Printed with a quarter-second scale, the inner réhaut not only allows precise reading of the stop time but also reminds us of the Portugieser’s origins as a nautical precision instrument for the wrist.

This model features a stainless steel case, a green dial, as well as rhodium-plated hands and appliqués; it is fitted with a black alligator leather strap. Inside the sporty-elegant chronograph, the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre is at work. The robust and precise chronograph movement in classic column-wheel design is visible through a sapphire-glass case back.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph

Calibre Family 69000

Movements from the 69000-calibre family are used in all IWC watches that require a precise, robust and high-performance chronograph movement. The chronograph is a classic column-wheel design and takes the energy it needs from a bidirectional pawl-winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism. The dial contains three subdials: one for the hour counter at “9 o’clock”, one for the minute counter at “12 o’clock” and one for the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. Movements in this calibre family have a frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 beats per hour) and a power reserve of 46 hours.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph

The Portugieser Collection

Only a few designs are absolutely timeless. With the Portugieser, IWC created an icon in the late 1930s. The basis for the Reference 325, which was delivered to two business men from Portugal – hence its name – was a hunter pocket watch caliber. Inspiration for the clean, open, highly functional dial came from the deck watches IWC was producing for the British Royal Navy at the time. From the outset, the Portugieser had the typical stylistic features of a pocket watch, coupled with the high precision and easy readability of a nautical instrument.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

GPHG 2020 Chronometry – Nomination: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Stainless Steel

Gravity Equal Force is the newest watch demonstrating an Armin Strom core principle: always be innovating. This watch takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head by adding a stop-work declutch mechanism combined with automatic winding to create consistent power delivery to the balance. With a bold redesign of the movement, dial and case, Gravity Equal Force marks the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.

As a guiding principle, every watch that comes from the Armin Strom manufacture must include an innovation. The inspiration behind Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrel to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing smooth power delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement.

Not content with one innovation, Armin Strom found insight in a pocket watch in need of repair from a U.S. collector, which contained a motor barrel design showing clear advantages over the standard going barrel. Inspired, the watchmakers designed a barrel operating in the reverse of a traditional mainspring barrel by driving the going train via the barrel arbor and winding the barrel housing, which both improves functionality and reduces wear.

This state-of-the-art design creates a stable, low-friction axis of rotation for the mainspring to deliver power from the barrel arbor, supported by precision jewel bearings. Though using only a portion of the mainspring by preventing it from completely unwinding, Armin Strom still achieved a power reserve of 72 hours. Wound by a unidirectionally winding micro rotor visible from the dial, the mainspring bears a power reserve indicator on the barrel cover for reference.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

With numerous small improvements to the going train and winding mechanism, the new Caliber ASB19 demonstrates Armin Strom’s commitment to continually questioning established theory and using in-house R&D to advance horological technology. Claude Greisler, co-founder of Armin Strom, highlights the improved usability: “We have reinvented the whole functionality of an automatic watch movement to bring another level of precision and to offer our collectors more assurance for reliable daily wear.”

The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges echoing the pocket watch inspiration behind the ASB19. The 41-millimeter case, a first for Armin Strom, should appeal to the more classically-inclined collector. The contemporary dimensions maintain the essence of Armin Strom DNA while shaping a new aesthetic that showcases a reduction to the essential. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience for discerning collectors.

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is the first model of the new System 78 Collection. It features a stainless steel case and is priced at CHF 16,900.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force
Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

GPHG 2020 Ladies’ Complication – Nomination: Jacob & Co – Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

This year, Jacob & Co. introduces a rainbow version of its ground-breaking Fleurs de Jardin. Designed to recreate a beautiful garden of flowers on your wrist, framed by sparkling rainbows, this amazing timepiece is powered by a delicate butterfly-shaped flying tourbillon movement. The tourbillon, time display and upper level multicolored sapphire flowers all turn around the dial clockwise, while the mother-of-pearl base set with rainbow sapphire flowers below turns counter-clockwise. In addition, one rainbow gemstone flower on the upper level turns counterclockwise.

Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

The 42.5mm 18K rose gold case features a bezel and inner ring set with rainbow sapphires, and sitting atop the movement is a 288-facet Jacob-cut grass-green tsavorite.

The biggest challenge for any rainbow watch is to source the right color gemstones. With exceptional skill, the designers at Jacob & Co. are masters at sourcing, selecting, and setting precious stones, so the Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow is the ultimate example of an exquisite gemstone rainbow.