Gravity Equal Force

Keep something in reserve

The Gravity Equal Force is demonstrating an Armin Strom core principle: always be innovating. This watch takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head by adding a stop-work declutch mechanism combined with automatic winding to create consistent power delivery to the balance. With a bold redesign of the movement, dial and case, Gravity Equal Force marks a new era for the manufacture.

Behind the inspiration of Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrel to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing smooth power delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement.

The contemporary dimensions maintain the essence of Armin Strom DNA while shaping a new aesthetic that showcases a reduction to the essential. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience for discerning collectors.

Streamliner

Marking the start of a new era in the H. Moser & Cie. story, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic is an unprecedented reimagining of the Stainless Steel Chronograph. Redefining the traditions of design, movement, and composition, the debut timepiece in H. Moser & Cie.’s latest collection unites our trademark codes of minimalism and contemporary elegance.

Throw out the rulebook, forget everything you’ve learned… and get ready to meet the new Line of Beauty.  This ‘Streamliner’ explores novel ways to express the essence and durability of familiar materials. An obsession with ergonomics has led to the seamless integration of liquid lines and mesmerising curves. Materials are reimagined, as light and shadow are mastered anew.

As much a wearable work of art as a watch, with the Streamliner H. Moser & Cie. has created a new form. Think Renaissance, think Enlightenment – think the first brushstrokes of Modernism. More than ever before, the Streamliner Chronograph marks the dawning of a New Age in Haute Horlogerie.

Streamliner

A softly curved case with a gently domed surface and recessed sides echoes in perfect harmony with the contours of an integrated and uniquely designed steel bracelet.

Conceived by Agenhor, the chronograph calibre is simply unparalleled, elevating every individual aspect of the traditional chronograph movement. By placing the automatic winding mechanism between the dial and the movement, we have left the case back clear – to offer an unobstructed view of the innovative and complex calibre.

The intricacy of this movement is balanced by a pure, minimalist dial – the signature of H. Moser & Cie. – featuring newly-designed ceramic luminescent hands and raw, vertical brushing on the elegant fumé dial.   And for the first time in history, we have mounted the hands of the flyback coaxially on the centre of the dial. This innovation unites the elements in a fluid motion, while maintaining a streamlined, uncluttered dial.

Think you know the rules of the road? Wait until you get behind the “wheels” of our groundbreaking Streamliner Chronograph. And see what happens when a dream becomes reality…

Edox Skydiver Military Limited Edition Bronze

The SkyDiver Military Story

A mysterious drawing found in the archives of Swiss watchmaker Edox has rekindled a decades-old mystery. The sketch of a long-lost timepiece, the SkyDiver, had a scrawled note reading: “1973. Special production in strictly limited edition.” But nothing more.

Edox Skydiver Military Limited Edition Bronze

A long-retired Edox watchmaker shed light on the story. The SkyDiver, he said, was rumoured to be a secret project for a mysterious, wealthy Swiss colonel. The anonymous colonel wanted an exclusive timepiece for elite mountain paratroopers under his command. The watch had to be dependable and rugged – just like his troops. He chose Edox because of the brand’s exceptional water-resistant watches, able to handle any situation the paratroopers might face – on land, air or sea. The colonel insisted on total secrecy.

Edox Skydiver Military Limited Edition Bronze

Now Edox is releasing a new limited-edition SkyDiver Military, in homage to its 135-year history and for aficionados of fine military timepieces. Powered by an automatic three-hand Swiss movement calibre 80, the 300m water-resistant SkyDiver features a new scratch resistant ceramic diver’s bezel and a parachute motif-engraved case back.

Presented in a stunning bronze case, an alloy that evokes strong links with the military world and which Edox has featured on its Delfin dive watch. Over time the bronze case protected by an anti-fingerprint nano-coating will develop its own unique patina, reinforcing that vintage military look.

Edox Skydiver Military Limited Edition Bronze

The bronze case is beautifully offset by a black gradient dial and black leather strap. An additional brown leather strap is also included in a special leather pouch both equipped with a quick release system.

The 2mm-thick sapphire crystal and the Superluminova X1 on hands and indexes will guarantee scratch resistance and readability in the most extreme conditions. Like its mysterious 1970s predecessor, the new SkyDiver Military is a strictly limited edition to 555 pieces.

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

The legendary OMEGA Speedmaster is one of the world’s most iconic timepieces, having played a role in all six lunar missions. Powering this stainless steel model is the famous Calibre 321, the driving force behind the chronograph’s extraordinary space history.

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

Legend in Steel

Inspired by the same 3rd generation style that astronaut Ed White wore during America’s first spacewalk in 1965, this 39.7 mm model features a bezel ring in polished black ceramic [ZrO2], a tachymeter scale in white enamel; and a black step dial with Moonwatch hands and vintage OMEGA logo.

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

OMEGA Calibre 321

The 321 is still highly sought‑after by collectors around the world. As a tribute to its enduring popularity, OMEGA undertook extensive research and reconstruction in a dedicated workshop. Now, more than 50 years on from its last wave of production, the Calibre 321 has been reborn, in line with its original specifications.

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

The Steel 321 Up Close

Our brief history of the 321 provides a compelling back-story of the Moonwatch and its famous movement. Find out what makes this particular stainless steel version a legend in its own right.

PANERAI LUMINOR SEALAND – 44 MM

PANERAI LUMINOR SEALAND – 44 MM

Panerai celebrates the Year of the Rat with a special edition of 88 units decorated using the ancient technique of sparsello. Chinese astrological tradition depicted and enhanced by Italian craftsmanship.

Panerai recalls the evocative thousand-year tradition of the Chinese Zodiac with the new Luminor Sealand – 44 mm (PAM00863), a special edition created to anticipate and accompany the Year of the Rat which will officially start on the 25th of January 2020.

For Panerai this is a true tradition within a tradition which started in 2009 with the celebration of the Year of the Ox and culminating today, in the 12th year, with the Luminor Sealand – 44 mm dedicated to the Year of the Rat.

This is the 12th Panerai Luminor Sealand model and marks the end of the 12- year cycle in which each year is distinguished by a sign of the zodiac represented by an animal.

Both ambitious and brilliant, those born under this sign use their intelligence and shrewdness to adapt to any situation, easily overcoming the problems and pitfalls of everyday life. They are also endowed with inspiration and intelligence, qualities which they share with the rat, the animal represented on the steel cover of the Luminor Sealand – 44 mm dedicated to it.

PANERAI LUMINOR SEALAND – 44 MM

A distinguishing feature of every Sealand, the decorated cover – with a signalling mirror inside – is hinged at 12 o’clock on the brush-finished AISI 316L steel case of the 44-mm model. This aesthetic and functional element protects the grey dial with its printed Arabic numerals and linear hour-markers, supplemented by luminous SuperLumiNovaTM dots.

The decoration of the cover has been engraved by hand by Italian master craftsmen using the ancient art of sparsello. This technique is named after the tool, like a little scalpel, which is used to make incisions. These are then inlayed with gold threads which are carefully hammered to fill the recesses. This operation takes up to 50 hours of work for each watch.

The mechanical movement of the new Luminor Sealand – 44 mm is the P. 9010 Calibre with a power reserve of three days provided by twin spring barrels, and rapid time adjustment which also changes the calendar. With automatic winding and only 6 mm thick, it was entirely conceived and developed at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel.

Water-resistant to a depth of 10 bar (about 100 metres), the new Luminor Sealand – 44 mm is fitted with a semi-matt calf strap, gold in colour with beige stitching, and it is presented in a pear wood box. It is supplied with a second strap of black rubber, a special tool for changing the strap and a screwdriver to remove the buckle.

PANERAI LUMINOR SEALAND – 44 MM
Corner Stone

The watch strikes four times at the top of the hour. Four seasons form a complete cycle. The new CORNER STONE model from independent watchmaker Moritz Grossmann, which was presented to the press in Tokyo on 7 March, has four corners. If you pronounce the English term “corner stone” in Japanese, the words curiously sound very similar in both languages: “Kōnāsutōn”. In Japanese script it looks like this: コーナーストーン

Grossmann Uhren GmbH wants to draw on this wonderful similarity between the two cultures and languages by naming the new model with the innovative rectangular design CORNER STONE. It is Grossmann’s first watch in this design variant that is particularly popular on the Japanese market. The new calibre 102.3 was specially designed for the rectangular movement shape with a small second scale at 6.00 o’clock and a central hour and minute display.

The flat case of the CORNER STONE with the curved lugs nestles perfectly on the wrist of both ladies and fashion-conscious men and always makes an elegant statement.

Corner Stone

Three dial variants

The CORNER STONE comes in three dial variants in five different versions.

Solid silver, opaline dial

In this version, the dial is made of solid silver with rose gold appliqués. The case is also made of rose gold. Another version of the dial features white gold appliqués with a white gold case. Handmade, brown-violet hands harmonise with both variants. A special feature of this variant is the small second and centre of the dial square-shaped.

Solid silver, black lacquered dial

Another version of the dial in solid silver is offered in black with Arabic numerals and a minute and seconds display scale in white. The case is made of white gold, while the handmade hands are made of polished stainless steel. The small second has a round shape.

Dial in white Grand-feu enamel

The enamelled dial is in rich white, with the numerals, minute markers and time display scale of the small seconds in brown providing an eye-catching contrast. As with the silver dial version, the case is also available in white gold or rose gold with handmade, brown-violet hands. The enamelled dial is furnished with a round small seconds display.

The white enamel version is limited to a run of 25 for each variation.

Corner Stone

New calibre 102.3

A new calibre has been developed for the rectangular shape that makes optimum use of the installation space and also offers further advantages. It has resulted in a movement with a relatively large barrel. A significantly longer power reserve of 60 hours could thus be achieved. The characteristic stop-second function has been realised in a new form. The kinetic energy of the angle lever is transmitted via a coupling rod, whereby the balance is gently braked by means of the stop spring and comes to a precise standstill.

High Artistic Finish

The CORNER STONE is supplied with a movement in High Artistic Finish. The typical four Grossmann stripes are applied horizontally to the two thirds plate. The writing “Moritz Grossmann” is engraved by hand.

The ratchet wheel has a particularly elaborate surface finish in the form of three band snailing. For the resulting optical effect, the teeth of the ratchet are initially given a continuous bevel. The snailing is then traditionally applied with a bronze bell. Turning the ratchet wheel creates an optical illusion: the rotation of the wheel when winding the watch is no longer perceptible.

The stepped balance cock with hand-engraved pattern, the golden chatons and the manually crafted hands tempered over an open flame perfect the extremely sophisticated impression of this watch.

Hamatic

Throughout millennia, researchers and inventors strived to build a perpetual motion machine, a device that would continue to move indefinitely once started. Without any external source of power, it was believed that the machine itself would generate an unlimited amount of energy. It was only with the formulation of the law of conservation of energy in the middle of the 19th century that physics quashed the principle of perpetual motion. Nevertheless, people’s fascination for the concept remained unbroken.

Of course, the HAMATIC does not purport to be perpetual motion machine – after all, the first automatic watch from Moritz Grossmann draws its kinetic energy from an external source. A pendulum-style hammer weight skillfully uses the energy generated through the wearer’s movements to transfer it via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel, meaning that an external energy source makes the dream of infinite motion come true. It’s therefore safe to say that the HAMATIC is one of the most beautiful and complex examples of would-be perpetual motion.

Hamatic

Perfected, traditional self-winding hammer system

Once upon a time, most people moved around on horseback or by foot. Both riding and walking mean that the person is subjected to a constant upward and downward movement. The engineers behind the world’s first automatic watches in the 19th century exploited this fact by using a pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy head to harness all of the kinetic energy generated through movement.

The engineers at Grossmann deliberately returned to the traditional concept in order to keep the fascinating mechanics of the Grossmann movement visible. In the form of an elaborate, intricately finished frame that is open in the middle, the body of the hammer provides a stage for the hammer spring and striking gold hammer head. The calibre 106.0 complete with its hammer-style pendulum system can thus be seen at work through the sapphire crystal display back.

The bidirectional automatic hammer mechanism guarantees high energy efficiency with consistent winding power. This results in a highly precise and reliable movement. A power reserve of 72 hours is available when fully wound.

The hammer’s centre of mass is further away from its rotational axis than with a central rotor. This results in a high torque, which in turn caters for powerful winding. Thanks to the special ratchet mechanism, hammer movements from just five degrees can be used to wind the mainspring.

Hamatic

The calibre 106.0

The calibre 106.0 was especially designed for the HAMATIC. This classic pillar movement has a Grossmann plate with six Glashütte stripes. Through the interplay of the hammer body together with head and spring, the automatic hammer mechanism works in both directions. A sapphire roller transfers the oscillation between hammer spring and hammer body.

Two basic scenarios need to be covered by this system in a reliable and energy-efficient manner – very fast movements and the more gentle deflection. The former generates excessive deflections, which need to be attenuated and limited by fixed end stops. This is ensured by intricately crafted end springs in the hammer frame. If the movements are gentler with low hammer amplitude, energy transmission is nearly loss-free.

Reduction gear with yoke winder

In order to convert the energy into a continuous rotary motion, the oscillations of the hammer body are picked up by two click levers. The two-way direction of rotation of the click wheels ensures an even rotary motion, which is transferred to the free wheel via the reduction wheel and then to the ratchet wheel in the mainspring barrel.

The automatic winding system is complemented by a manual winder designed as a yoke winder that is mounted on a separate bridge. The yoke ensures that the manual winder is always uncoupled from the ratchet wheel when the HAMATIC system is active in response to motion. In manual winding mode, the reduction gear is isolated from the ratchet wheel by a click-pawl idler.

The HAMATIC also offers a stop-second function via the balance for ultra-precise time setting.

Hamatic

The dial

Large, intricately finished Roman numerals adorn the dial, the design of which is reminiscent of the historical pocket watches by Moritz Grossmann. The hands are another nod to the historical models. The hour hand stands out thanks to its pear-shaped tip, while the minute hand moves round the scale in a needle-like, slender design.

Once again echoing the design of Moritz Grossmann’s pocket watches, the hour and minute hands are extremely delicately crafted and measure just 0.1 mm in width at the narrowest point. At its tip, the second hand is no more than five hundredths of a millimetre. The hands are manually crafted in the manufactory and annealed over an open flame to achieve the distinctive Moritz Grossmann brown-violet hue.

The Luminor Due – 42 mm in Goldtech

Powerful, intense and distinctive. Panerai Goldtech™ returns to take centre stage, fashioned into the forms of the new Luminor Due – 42 mm watches.

A synthesis of sophisticated elegance, historic roots and Italian design, since 2016 the Luminor Due has been the tangible expression of Panerai’s unceasing technicalaesthetic development. The powerful amplification of a new language. A model out of the ordinary. A careful custodian of elements which have re-emerged from history, but reassessed in its volumes and reinterpreted in its proportions.

The new Luminor Due – 42 mm turns to gold. The case, the bezel, the Safety Lock™ crown protective device, the back and the buckle are formed of alchemylike fusions of Panerai Goldtech™, a special 18-carat gold alloy with an original composition which is notable for its high percentage of copper as well as the presence of platinum. The purpose of the copper is to give the colour intensity and depth, while the platinum is there to lower the tarnishing effects of oxidation.

This elegant nonconformity is emphasised by the design of the dial. This is either black with a satiné soleil finish and sandwich structure (PAM01041), or white with luminous printed Arabic numerals (PAM01042).

The Luminor Due – 42 mm in Goldtech

The Luminor Due – 42 mm in Goldtech™ has a mechanical movement with automatic winding. It meets the requirement of being very practical and suitable for everyday use, while at the same time being a watch which is visually superb. The new P.900 Calibre fits perfectly into the small size of the Luminor Due case. Visible through the sapphire crystal back, with its thickness of just 4.2 mm it is today one of Panerai’s thinnest automatic movements.

Entirely developed and assembled at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the automatic movement with such a small diameter, combines the functions of date, small seconds and a power reserve of three days.

Water-resistant to 3 bar (a depth of about 30 metres) the new Luminor Due – 42 mm watches are supplied with an interchangeable alligator leather strap fitted with the Quick Release system, and a Panerai GoldtechTM clasp buckle. The strap is black with tone-on-tone sewing (PAM01041), or dark brown with beige sewing (PAM01042).

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

With their elegant and refined design, these two Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater perpetual calendar – A perfect combination watches are the latest in a long line of exceptional achievements by the Manufacture. The purity of their design stems notably from a consummate and comprehensive mastery of ultra-thin movements.

A worthy descendant of historical fine watchmaking calibres

The Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar – A perfect combination models are equipped with a revisited movement, the 1731 QP calibre, which combines a minute repeater and perpetual calendar at the heart of an extremely slim white or pink gold case. For the watchmakers of the Maison, the challenge was to associate two of the most sophisticated complications within a movement measuring just 5.70 mm thick, while ensuring precision, reliability and user friendliness.

No fewer than 438 components, some measuring about a hair’s breadth, compose a true watchmaking alchemy within a mechanical manual-winding movement beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and driving the following functions – hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap-year indication, moon phase and minute repeater – while maintaining a 65-hour power reserve.

These new timepieces are the latest in a line of watches that have left an indelible imprint on their respective eras. In 1992, Vacheron Constantin presented reference 30020, an exceptional model repeating the hours, quarters and minutes while also endowed with a perpetual calendar. In 2013, the Maison launched the famous 1731 calibre, named in tribute to Jean-Marc Vacheron’s birth year: an extremely slim manual-winding minute repeater movement inspired by historical calibres.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Discreet complexity

The two Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar repeater timepieces combine a vision of complex watchmaking with an aesthetic pairing pure design with undeniable elegance. The calendar indications follow a classic layout with the indications of days, dates and month, positioned at the top of the dial adorned with a sunray guilloché motif. This perfectly legible display leaves all the space required for the golden dance of the moon standing out against a star-studded background. The leap year is discreetly indicated through an aperture, while the equally unobtrusive minute circle marks off the passing of time without disturbing the intuitive calendar reading. In the same spirit, the slender 42 mm case exudes an unassuming yet refined aura. Only the control system for the minute repeater function, on the left side, reflects the true complexity of these two pieces and testifies to their ability to sound the tempo on gongs. A degree of sophistication confirmed by a simple glance through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback offering admirable views of the mechanical subtleties of this watch that chimes the time.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

This one-of-a-kind model paying tribute to the grand tradition of “musical” watches by Vacheron Constantin, houses a grande and petite sonnerie movement with a minute repeater mechanism. The case honours the art of hand engraving with a motif depicting the score of Beethoven’s sixth symphony.

Grande sonnerie watches

Grande sonnerie watches are in a class of their own among musical timepieces due to their complexity. It was not until 1992 that the first wristwatch model of this kind appeared. Since then, the mastery of these pieces that sound the hours and quarters in passing – with repetition of the time before each quarter in grande sonnerie mode and without repetition in petite sonnerie mode – has remained fairly uncommon due its extremely stringent construction requirements.

Producing one calls for an integrated movement design that must also take into account several specificities of these complex mechanisms – starting with issues related to the security of its operation, given that any interference between the various functions is likely to damage the calibre. Energy management is also an essential parameter, since a grande sonnerie is called into action 96 times every 24 hours making a total of 912 hammer strikes on the watch’s gongs. As far as sound production is concerned, it requires great technical and musical virtuosity to ensure that the sequences are clearly audible
and melodiously clear.

Two centuries of expertise

Vacheron Constantin has mastered all these techniques for more than two centuries. The Manufacture’s archives indeed reveal a first pocket watch with grande and petite sonnerie and minute repeater dating from 1817. The company registers also make numerous references to striking watches, often associated with other complications or astronomical functions. With the advent of the wristwatch, Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in musical watches continued to be expressed, particularly through ultra-thin models, right the way through to 2017: key date for the Maison corresponding to the introduction of its Les Cabinotiers Symphonia watch, the first grande sonnerie wristwatch in Vacheron Constantin’s history equipped with the 1860 calibre also featuring a minute repeater. It is this same movement, stemming from ten years of research and development, that drives Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony.

This one-of-a-kind model is notably characterised by a dial adorned with a circular cross weave guilloché motif housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case, of which the middle bears a meticulously executed base-relief engraving of a musical score. The latter echoes Ludwig van Beethoven’s “Pastoral” Sixth Symphony in F major, hand-engraved on an olive-leaf background, decor inspired by a pocket-watch from the Vacheron Constantin Heritage collection, named « Les Bergers d’Arcadie », created in 1923. The pure sound along with the understated dial punctuated by a small seconds display and two power reserve indicators (one for the strikework with a treble clef hand-shape and the other for the timekeeping functions) endow this watch with the Maison’s characteristic aura of elegance. The beige tone of the dial also reinforces the classicism of the watch, enhanced by the open-tipped hands and the typography of the hour numerals.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

Excellence in every detail

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony meets a double requirement consisting in making a supreme complication movement – comprising 727 parts that takes 500 hours of assembly to fit within a 37 mm diameter – that is as easy to use as it is perfectly secure. The bi-directional manual-winding calibre with two barrels, one delivering 72 hours of power reserve and the other 20 hours of strikework power reserve, is thus equipped with innovative security systems that protect its striking mechanisms. The latter are controlled by the bezel for the grande and petite sonnerie and by a push-piece housed in the crown for the minute repeater.

To ensure a perfectly regular sequence of strikes on the monobloc goings, Vacheron Constantin’s master watchmakers have succeeded in eliminating the “phantom quarters”, meaning the short silences generally perceptible between the hours and minutes struck by a repeater. For the sake of excellence, the calibre is also equipped with a non-dragging surprise jumper, a mechanism enabling accurate strikes on full hours and quarters. A masterpiece of elegance and complexity, this Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande sonnerie – The sixth symphony reveals the subtleties of its striking movement through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the
great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie - the Sixth Symphony

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

Villeret Ultraplate

At Blancpain, excellence lies at the heart of all its watch creations, combining expertise, innovation and aestheticism. The new Villeret Ultraplate is the most recent example. This platinum timepiece with a blue dial marks a return to essentials in which hours and minutes reign supreme. Issued in an 88-piece limited edition, it is exclusively available in brand boutiques worldwide.

Elegance and discretion have characterized Villeret models since their early days in the 1980s. The new Villeret Ultraplate watch is no exception. It has a resolutely contemporary face while preserving the collection’s emblematic aestheticism and authenticity. The Villeret style is distinguished by a delicately rounded double-stepped bezel, stylish hands meticulously crafted in the shape of cut-out sage leaves, applied Roman numeral hour-markers crafted in gold and a delightfully slim case.

Villeret Ultraplate

Like all Blancpain models, the new Villeret Ultraplate limited edition guarantees enhanced reliability and running efficiency. Based on the renowned 1150 caliber, the hand-wound 11A4B Manufacture movement offers four days of autonomy driven by two series-coupled barrels and equipped with high-performance hairsprings. This construction enables a constant energy pulse, guaranteeing precision from the first hours of operation through to the final minutes. Particularly concerned with ensuring the user friendliness of its watches, Blancpain has equipped the new Villeret Ultraplate with a power-reserve indicator. The latter is displayed on the back to preserve the elegance of the dial. Protected by a sapphire case-back, the mechanism has been subtly decorated to reflect the purity of the watch face. The entirely redesigned bridges are adorned with the traditional côtes de Genève motif, as well as beveled edges.

The new Villeret Ultraplate in platinum comes with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 7.40 mm thick. Graced with a blue dial, it is paired with a blue alligator strap secured by a pin buckle. This exclusive model issued in an 88-piece edition is dedicated to Blancpain boutiques worldwide.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

The unique Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin – A romantic note is powered by the 1731 calibre, an ultra-thin movement featuring carefully studied acoustics. Its classic style exuding a very refined look, embellished with Arabic numerals appearing in an original font on a Grand Feu enamel dial, makes this 41 mm-diameter timepiece a timepiece for connoisseurs: only the minute repeater slide piece hints at its true nature as a complicated watch.

The history of the 1731 calibre

 The main characteristic of the 1731 calibre (thus named in a nod to Jean-Marc Vacheron’s birth year) is its extreme thinness for a minute repeater movement. At just 3.90 mm, it is only slightly thicker than its predecessor – the 1755 calibre dating from 1992 – because of its impressive 65-hour power reserve. It took four years to solve this most complex equation: to create a minute repeater movement, combining slimness, a pure sound, pleasing aesthetics, reliability and robustness.

Moreover, the technical feats are not confined to the challenge of extreme thinness, since the 1731 calibre is equipped with one of the most ingenious devices developed in 2007 for the 2755 movement – another member of this exclusive family of minute repeater calibres – a flying strike governor that is entirely silent, unlike conventional lever-type governors, and is tasked with regulating the rate at which hammers strike the gongs.

Acoustics, the real raison d’être of a minute repeater, was the focus of attention. To ensure the sound is crystal clear and perfectly harmonious, several different technical choices had to be made. The gongs are thus not only connected to the case middle so as to amplify the sound, but also superimposed, rather than aligned side by side.

The two pink gold cases are designed to form a single entity with the movement, in a composition that incorporates such subtle parameters as the circulation of air between the mechanism and the case in order to ensure optimal note propagation. The case has also been seamlessly constructed so that the elements can interact metal to metal and thus increase the amplitude of the sound.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

Disconcerting classicism

 Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin – A romantic touch is presented with an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and just 8.5 mm thick. This one-of-a-kind model features a dial crafted in Grand Feu enamel, one of the most demanding enamelling techniques, of which the “eggshell” colour blends perfectly with the aesthetics of the model.

Exuding an aura of unmistakable classicism, inspired by reference 4261 – an extremely understated Vacheron Constantin minute repeater watch dating from 1941 – this model is spiced up with an original font used for the railroad and the leaning Arabic black enamelled numerals. Slim hollow-tipped hands complete the “romantic” appearance of this piece, which is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap. Only the presence of slide piece on the left side of the case hints at the complexity of a minute repeater housed in this watch with its pure design. A watch for connoisseurs.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

 In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater ultra-thin

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

 Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, “audible” watches have taken various forms: repeaters (indicating the hours and sometimes the quarters and minutes on request), sonnerie (striking) watches (indicating the hours and quarters in passing) and alarms (which can be programmed to ring at specific times).

While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold pocket watch with minute repeater registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.