The Singapore Formula 1 Grand Prix is the perfect occasion for Richard Mille to present the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen alongside its partner. The piece pays homage to both this great driver and his team: Alfa Romeo Racing Team, the legendary manufacturer inseparable from car racing.
Richard Mille has supported Alfa Romeo Racing Team since 2018, so Kimi first entered the Richard Mille world when he was signed by the Swiss manufacturer in 2018. Crowned world champion in 2007 after being vice world champion in 2003 and 2005, 39-year-old Kimi Räikkönen is a seasoned veteran on the 2019 stage. At the Singapore Grand Prix, the so-called “Iceman” will have the chance to take his 307th start. Yet further evidence of the driver’s exceptional longevity, who over the course of his 18-year career has made 103 podium finishes, coming first on 21 occasions. Now more focused on the pleasure of driving, he has entirely rethought his approach to Formula 1: ‘From now on, I consider F1 to be a hobby,” confides Kimi. “I no longer feel the same pressure and I can just have fun at the wheel.
That’s what I enjoy doing, even if I’m still concentrated on doing my best to achieve the result that the car deserves.’ Kimi’s legendary reserved disposition, his ability to keep his cool under any circumstances—which earned him his nickname—, his reflexes and his finesse remain just as impressive as ever. Whether astride a motorbike, on hockey skates or on a bike, sport and high-level competition are an integral part of the driver’s life and personality. This all-consuming passion also seems to take him off the beaten track with forays into WRC and NASCAR. Appointed Sports Ambassador in 2017 in Finland, he is currently Finland’s most decorated Formula 1 driver, ahead of the great Mika Häkkinen.
Now he’ll take pride in wearing the RM 50-04 on his wrist. This extremely technical calibre is fitted with a split-seconds chronograph tourbillon and a grade-5 titanium and Carbon TPT® movement that weighs just 7 grams. To combine these complications within a single mechanism required perfect transmission of energy to ensure faultless operation. The need to reduce friction led the research team to improve the profile of the teeth on the barrel and the second wheel pinion. The latter led to an excellent distribution of torque and an optimised output. The combination of the tourbillon escapement and the chronograph paired with the unprecedented fine skeletonisation make this particularly innovative watch the absolute chronograph perfection.
The colours used on the C38 single-seater are showcased on the bezel and case back in white Quartz TPT®. This is achieved by interlaying 600 layers of silicon each 45 microns thick and impregnating them with a white matrix before heating them to 120 °C in an autoclave. This process gives the material a very high resistance/weight ratio, non-allergenic properties, and excellent resistance to UV rays. Developed by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPTTM), the technique is also used on the Carbon TPT® middle, but this time using carbon fibres. Red echoes can also be seen within the movement, particularly on the Carbon TPT® flange, the chronograph counters, and the power-reserve, torque and function indicators. The grade-5 titanium dial also includes the number 7, which is worn by Kimi in competition. The combination of these technical solutions gives this complex piece exceptional resistance, tested in- house with impacts of 5,000 g’s.
This limited edition of just 30 pieces, set to accompany the driver on all his major grands prix, is unveiled on 18 September at an evening event attended by Kimi and the Alfa Romeo Racing Team.
‘We in Finland are known for our “guts” and determination. We even have a word for it – sisu. However, in my sport sisu is not enough. I have to rely on high-performance technology and team-work but most of all, though, there has to be sheer passion! Richard Mille has powered his own engine for years with all three of these,– guts, technological prowess and above all fun. That’s why I am more than happy to be at the wheel with the ground-breaking RM 50-04 on my wrist.`
1969 was the year of the first automatic chronograph movement and Hamilton was an integral part of it. The Caliber 11 inspired the designs of dozens of sporty models from 1969 onwards. In celebration of the 50th anniversary of this watchmaking milestone, we are launching the Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50.
Distinctive, daring and definitely an attention-grabber, the Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 is based on the Chrono-Matic E from the early ‘70s which has since become a highly sought after collector’s piece.
The early ‘70s was a hotbed of creativity with distinctive and unusual models all trying to harness the power of the pioneering new Caliber 11 movement. Our close involvement in the creation of Caliber 11 left us in a better position to make watches that could accurately showcase the new technology. It was one of the biggest breakthroughs in watchmaking since the launch of the legendary Ventura in 1957.
At a mind-blowing 48 mm, the authentic, ‘70s style stainless steel Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 case is impressive, imposing and not for the faint hearted.
The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 has a date display at 6 o’clock and chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock. The two chronograph pushers are positioned on the right hand side of the case and are marked in red. This bold color accent appears on everything linked to the chronograph – counters, chronograph hand, and inner dial ring – underscoring the dynamism of this stylish, multifunctional timekeeper.
The H-31 automatic chronograph movement offers an extended power reserve of 60 hours – a modern touch to keep this powerhouse pumping, even when you take some downtime. A quick-change date function acknowledges your need for quick thinking when you are on the go.
Once again, Hamilton achieved a great historical milestone in the area of watchmaking as key partner in the development of the Caliber 11. The strong character Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 will seduce daring collectors and design aficionados alike.
Tracking the Earth as it spins and flies through space and time
The UR-100 takes us on a journey through both time and space, two concepts at the very core of URWERK. Using its orbiting satellite hours and minute hands, the UR-100 displays both time (hours and minutes) and space (distance travelled), merging these two concepts in the creation of the all-new UR-100 SpaceTime.
The UR-100 SpaceTime features URWERK’s iconic orbital hour satellites, differing however in one significant way. Rather than the red-arrow-tipped minute pointers on the hour satellites disappearing after 60 minutes when replaced by the next, the UR-100 minute arrow passes beneath and between subsidiary dials, reappearing to display intriguing new astronomical indications: distance travelled on Earth and distance travelled by Earth.
Distance travelled on Earth
The first indicator at 10 o’clock evaluates the distance in kilometers that we have travelled on the Earth without even leaving our desks! It is based on the average speed of the rotation of the Earth on its axis at the equator, covering a distance of 555 km every 20 minutes.
Distance travelled by the Earth around the sun
Directly opposite at 2 o’clock, the same hand (well it looks like the same hand, but is actually one of three) continues its journey to another celestial indication featuring the distance the Earth has travelled in its orbit around the sun – a journey spanning some 35,740 km every 20 minutes.
The UR-100 simultaneously presents three different space-time realities, providing a thought-provoking reminder of our voyage through time and space.
“For me, watches have a philosophical dimension. They are a physical and abstract reproduction of our situation on Earth, with the dial representing the equator, simultaneously in constant motion while seemingly stationary for us,” says Martin Frei, chief designer and co-founder of URWERK.
Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and the other co-founder of URWERK agrees: “We live in a universe governed by three dimensions — time, rotation, and orbit — that we attempt to measure and master, but what escapes us is this notion of spacetime.”
Powering the UR-100 SpaceTime is the automatic Caliber 12.01, with baseplates in ARCAP and a power reserve of 48 hours. The automatic winding rotor is regulated by a flat turbine, the Windfäng (Swiss German for “air trap”) that minimizes shocks to the rotor bearing and reduces over-winding and wear and tear. The rotor, which is partially supported on its periphery by the flat turbine, also has a larger diameter, resulting in a lower mass and therefore less wear.
In-house testing of the flat turbine rotor regulation system found that it provided significant and exponential protection against excessive rotor speeds (the Windfänger rotates six times for every rotation of the winding rotor).
The design and construction of the URWERK Caliber 12.01 required incredibly high precision because of the extremely tight tolerances between the minute hand and three different dials and domed sapphire crystal it passes between.
The shape of the case may remind URWERK aficionados of the aesthetics of the brand’s early watches. As Martin Frei explains, “Towards the end of the 90’s, we unveiled the UR-101 and UR-102, the UR-100 is a little like our ‘Back to the Future.’ We broke down our approach and used some of the original design elements of our early constructions. The case of the UR-100 is a deconstruction of an early URWERK case. The steel dome of our historic models is reproduced in sapphire crystal. The form is emphasized by the titanium and steel case. I constantly question the diktat of symmetry and played with proportions to catch the eye.”
At once graphic, cartographic and hemispherical, the Globetrotter Night gives its display of world times over to the night. Beneath a crystal dome, this timepiece plays on nocturnal nuances and city lights.
In the 1780s, John Arnold contributed to the great revolution in ocean navigation with his marine chronometers. The Globetrotter Night reflects this historical legacy with its cartographic features and world times. As night follows day, Arnold & Son cloaks its Globetrotter in darkness, spectacularly showcasing our northern hemisphere when shrouded in vesperal shadow.
Beneath a large sapphire crystal dome, an arch supports a half-globe in shades of grey and blue. It depicts the continents, the seas and the lights of the large cities located north of the equator. On the edge of the planet, a sapphire ring breaks down the 24 hours of a day. Transparent between 6 am and 6 pm, a metal treatment has been used to darken it, indicating the night-time hours. Together, the hemisphere and ring display the time in one part of the world, represented in a highly original way. In the absence of a dedicated hand or city disc, the time is read geographically in accordance with the continents.
The Earth by night
The Globetrotter Night offers a realistic and meticulously rendered interpretation of a three-dimensional map enclosed in a 45 mm steel case. Chemical engraving has been used on the half-globe to outline the continents. The raised parts have undergone a deep-grey galvanic treatment before being hand-lacquered in a black-grey hue, while the oceans are lacquered in grey-blue. Finally, the city lights twinkling in the northern hemisphere are represented by hand-applied silver sparkles.
The decorative touches and finishes adorning the Globetrotter Night extend beyond the Earth itself. The chapter ring is circular satin-brushed and the hands, despite being mostly concealed beneath the half-globe, are polished and accentuated by red lacquered tips. The large double-foot bridge supporting the half-globe is a spectacular feature in itself that lends structure to the overall appearance of this timepiece. It is circular satin-brushed and chamfered by hand and held in place by screws with polished heads and chamfered slots.
These finishes are echoed extensively on the A&S6022 self-winding calibre powering the Globetrotter Night. Entirely developed and produced by the Arnold & Son Manufacture, it has a nocturnal style thanks to the widespread use of NAC-type surface treatments. The bridges are polished and chamfered, finished with Côtes de Genève stripes and coloured grey. The skeletonised oscillating weight is engraved and treated chemically with ADLC black and NAC grey to obtain a two-tone appearance using a matt straight-grained finish.
Beyond these aesthetic details, what makes the A&S6022 calibre special is its easy setting, thanks to a three-position crown. The first winds the movement. The second adjusts the local time hand by one-hour jumps either clockwise or anti-clockwise. The third regulates the hours and minutes in addition to the planet’s rotation. When travelling to a different time zone, the second position enables the wearer to change local time while keeping world time synchronised.
In the interests of fairness, Arnold & Son can also provide a “southern hemisphere” version of its Globetrotter Night on request at the same price.
With two new Aquaracer models, TAG Heuer introduces an on-trend colour for men and women who desire an innovative timepiece that blends fashion with function.
Inspired by the mesmerising blue and green shades of the ocean, the Swiss watchmaker has created two green-dialled Aquaracer models that offer sporty functionality on any terrain. The stylish timepieces for men and women are distinguished by their everyday versatility and dive-ready technology. Ideal for an individual or purchased together as couple’s watches, these modern Aquaracer models invite the wearers to live the good life – whether that’s cruising on the waves or exploring the world below the surface.
Go for green
The 43 mm Aquaracer has a stunning green dial that creates an eye-catching light display with its sunray effect. The design of the horizontal lines that run across the dial resembles the wooden docks where sailboats are moored. There is a date window at 3 o’clock on the dial, and the numerals on the bezel are filled in with black lacquer, as is the triangle marker at 12 o’clock. This model’s smaller 32 mm counterpart features the same regal sunray green dial, but, instead of horizontal lines, it is decorated with elegant diamond hour markers. There is a date window at 3 o’clock on the dial and a triangle marker at 12 o’clock on the bezel for optimal readability.
Both watches are crafted from stainless steel and presented on stainless-steel bracelets. At the heart of the 43 mm model is the Calibre 5 Automatic movement, while the 32 mm model is powered by a quartz movement.
Ready to dive
These two Aquaracer timepieces are as robust as they are stylish. Prepared for experiences and sporty activities on any terrain, they are particularly well-suited for underwater exploration. They are both equipped with the six standard diving features of all models in the Aquaracer collection: water resistance to 300 metres (30 bar), a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, luminescent hands and markers, a double security clasp, and a sapphire crystal.
Elegant, sophisticated and bold, these new additions to TAG Heuer’s historic Aquaracer collection are a contemporary interpretation of the water-resistant timepieces the watchmaker has developed throughout its history. With their comfortable bracelets and timeless designs, the precise and reliable Aquaracer models are prepared to accompany watch aficionados wherever their experiences take them.
For its participation in the new edition of Only Watch, Maurice Lacroix has revisited the AIKON Mercury. At once mysterious and spectacular, this watch featuring patented technology intrigues with its possibility of stopping time… This unique Only Watch model is now available for the first time in titanium case. It will be put up for auction by Christie’s on 9 November at the Hotel des Bergues in Geneva in aid of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies.
REPRESENTING TIME ITSELF
At first glance, the AIKON Mercury appears to be a normal watch, with central hours and minutes and small seconds at the six o’clock position. With the slightest tilt, however, the hour and minute hands spin freely, abandoning their chronometric duties. Hold the AIKON Mercury upright, and the hands fall back and give correct time.
This is the secret of the AIKON Mercury. Like time, it slips away when you’re not paying attention. Like time, it reasserts itself when you need it.
The patented mechanism behind this innovative display took 3 years to develop and perfect in the manufacture facilities of Maurice Lacroix in Saignelégier.
The AIKON Mercury combines an unprecedented “free hand” system that works with natural forces of gravity to read and display time from a double snailcam mechanism hidden beneath the dial. One snail cam is associated with the display of hours, making one complete rotation every 12 hours, while the other is associated with the display of minutes and rotates once every 60 minutes.
When the wearer turns his wrist to look at the watch (A), with its movement perpendicular to the ground, gravity acts on two weighted levers, pulling them into contact with the snail cams.
Dictated by the continuous rotating snail cams, the levers then drive the hour and minute hands to indicate the correct time. When the wearer leaves the upright position (B), hands follow a mercurial pattern before falling to gravity. The mechanism still computes in the background, ready to give back the correct time when A is triggered by the position of the wrist.
A NEW URBAN AESTHETIC
The launch of the AIKON collection in 2016 was a return to the iconic design codes of Maurice Lacroix in the 1990s, updated for the new millennium. The sophisticated lines of the AIKON incorporated a robust profile with strong angles and sharp interplay between matt and polished surfaces. While the emphasis in existing AIKON automatic models has been on subtle elegance, with their textured guilloche dials, the AIKON Mercury takes a cue from the powerful Masterpiece series and features a transparent sapphire dial showcasing a darkened skeletonised module. The skeleton design that has been a signature feature of Maurice Lacroix since the 1990s has now been updated, with a combination of circular brushing and hollowed, sandblasted bridges towards the centre of the dial giving a strong, contemporary look. Maurice Lacroix is known for thoughtful, attentive design that focuses on detail, and the AIKON Mercury is no different. The distinctive AIKON bezel and the leather strap with integrated M logo are hallmarks of the collection, but the AIKON Mercury, as expected, goes one step further.
The counterweights offer additional visual interest whenever the dauphine hands cross and the M logo counterweight of the hour hand is briefly encircled by the counterweight of the minute hand. This effect, as straightforward as it appears to be, required the Maurice Lacroix development team to undertake numerous stages of calculation, computer simulations and prototyping to ensure that the hands are not only well poised on the dial of the watch, but that their centre of gravity is perfectly situated in order to allow the hands to move easily when the watch is turned away from the upright position.
For this unique piece, the hours and minutes are indicated by hands covered in white Super-LumiNova as well as a blue coating. The rack, the cams and the topstitching on the bracelet all sport this same shade of blue in honour of the colour chosen for this edition of Only Watch 2019.
The name of the AIKON Mercury makes reference to the quicksilver fluidity of time, channelling a dynamic energy that is further reflected with the unpredictable hands. The versatility of the AIKON Mercury lies in its easy transition from urban chic to rugged elegance, in the organic curves of its skeleton design against the classic geometry of its hands and hour markers, in the high-concept time display housed in a contemporary steel case, offered with both black alligator leather strap and 5 rows metal bracelet.
The promise of every timepiece from Maurice Lacroix is that “Your time is now,” and the AIKON Mercury takes this to the next level. Its unique time display mechanism is designed to respond to the wrist motion taken when its wearer raises the watch to read the time. The AIKON Mercury directs itself specifically to the wearer and no one else — your time is now, and it is for you only.
STRAW MARQUETRY, AVENTURINE, OSMIUM AND CARBONIUM® GOLD: THE GRAVITY-DEFYING FREE WHEEL’S STRUCTURE IS A DELIGHT TO THE EYE.
The Ulysse Nardin’s Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel is a poem of mechanical mastery, a symphony of aesthetic artistry and a highly functional work of art. A tour de force in mechanical watchmaking, the Free Wheel has a fantastically futuristic movement that makes it the Swiss watch manufacture’s most refined and audacious timepiece to date.
Today, Ulysse Nardin gives a new shine to its Executive Free Wheel by using four daring materials on its dial and barrel cover, making it a visual feast for the watch connoisseur. Manufactured in a limited edition of just 18 timepieces for each design, each watch is as unique as its wearer.
OSMIUM: A CELESTIAL TABLEAU
With a dial made from osmium which is not only the world’s heaviest metal but also the rarest and densest, most stable element – this version of the Free Wheel has a white gold case which frames the diamond-like osmium crystals. Osmium, atomic number 76 in the Periodic Table of The Elements, is a trace element found in alloys mostly in the platinum group and used by manufacturers when extreme hardness is required. Incandescent, it is a siren song of engineering and esthetics.
AVENTURINE: AN INTERSTELLAR ADVENTURE
The deep blue aventurine dial is reminiscent of the starry night sky glittering with reflections of the stars. A form of translucent quartz, the name “aventurine” derives from the Italian a ventura, which can mean “by chance” or simply “let the adventure begin”. Also used in the Ulysse Nardin men’s Blue Aventurine Genghis Khan 789-80, this mineral’s aventurescence provides a shimmering effect often seen by sailors contemplating the ocean’s surface in the dark of night.
STRAW MARQUETRY: AN ANCIENT TECHNIQUE BROUGHT UP TO DATE
Made using a rarefied, 17th-century technique once practiced by nuns in convents, straw marquetry has been revived with new glory and used by Ulysse Nardin to adorn the face of this Executive Free Wheel model. Lightweight straw means there is no issue of pressure on the dial and barrel cover. The face design uses shiny, black-dyed straw – every stalk cut and prepared by specialized artisans – adding a sleek, masculine veneer to the dial.
Naturally resistant to the effects of time and capable of catching light to create a stunning visual effect, straw marquetry is a master craft in and of itself. Straw is split with painstaking precision, dyed with textile dye then applied onto the dial and the barrel cover. It is a distinctive way to explore precision in a pattern design. Not only does this ancient method bring poetry to a complicated timepiece but it also protects these métiers from extinction.
CARBONIUM® GOLD: A STUDY IN AUDACIOUS ELEGANCE
Composed of aeronautical grade carbon fibers, Carbonium® is approximately twice as light as aluminum. The carbon and pre-pregnated resin composite is made with ecologically sourced components, making a markedly smaller impact on the environment than any conventional carbon composite. Aesthetically stunning, Carbonium® Gold is a product of the intimate fusion of carbon filaments and gold particles within a thermosetting matrix. The resulting gold veined effect is bold and elegant.
ABOUT THE EXECUTIVE FREE WHEEL
With a 7-day power reserve, its “free-floating” elements seem to move independently of each other to defy gravity. The Silicium technology, which was pioneered by Ulysse Nardin, allows for minimum friction and for the replacement of more traditional watchmaking components, such as precious stones.
The elements of the Executive Free Wheel literally make time fly. The innovative movement, which took years to research and develop, is presented in a 44mm case. The gear trains and bridges appear to float in the air with the other components, a delicate balance of parts working in harmony. The entire UN-176 movement was developed at the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture in Switzerland. Designed for the true watch connoisseur, the Executive Free Wheel – in all of its incarnations – is a perfect coherence of engineering and aesthetics.
The external beauty of each piece showcases the mechanical prowess that has blazed new trails into uncharted waters, allowing modern day Ulysses to venture fearlessly into their dreams equipped with efficiency and elegance.
De Bethune is particularly proud and pleased to learn that the two timepieces submitted as entries for the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève 2019, were retained for the jury’s official preselection.
The DB28 Yellow Tones in the Men’s Category
A master in the art of thermal oxidation of metals, De Bethune continues to explore all the hues and shades achievable with steel grades and titanium by heat-induced chemical reactions. To create its own fiery yellow, De Bethune applies its famous technique of gently oxidizing grade 5 titanium to naturally tint its surface. This ritual conjures a rare, unique, uniform and extraordinary flame blonde colour.
Furthermore, the DB28 impresses with the Maison’s latest innovations:
The patented spherical moon phase, located at 6 o’clock. Made of steel and palladium, it is
accurate to within one lunar day every 122 years.
Aerodynamics, optimized efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation,
anti-magnetism… the high-performance escapement features a titanium balance wheel torque with white gold weights, and a patented flat terminal curve spiral, ensuring an ideal mass/inertia ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph adapted to wristwatches.
The benchmark-setting “triple pare-chute” shock absorption system.
The DB28GS Grand Bleu in the Diver’s Category
A new calibre, water resistance now extended to 100 metres, excellent legibility even in lowest light conditions thanks to ingenious lighting inside the movement, a different bezel that now rotates together with the crystal to give diving time, a titanium case for lightness, and a rubber strap for practicality. This watch also features a 5-day power reserve.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Presents The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste At The Venice International Film Festival
In 2019, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 15th year of its partnership with one of the most prestigious events in cinema, the Venice International Film Festival. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been the main sponsor of the film festival for over a decade, most notably by honouring personalities who have made significant contributions to contemporary cinema with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory to the Filmmaker Award.
The best films can redefine the most quotidian experiences, elevating life to art. In line with this approach, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste features a different perspective on time itself, with an orbital flying tourbillon that makes a complete turn of the dial over the course of 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. This unusual time unit is the length of one sidereal day, calculated with reference to the more distant stars instead of the Sun.
The dial itself depicts the night sky of the Northern hemisphere, showcasing the constellations of the zodiac calendar framed by an outer ring displaying their associated symbols. A tiny gold marker, seen just beyond the orbit of the flying tourbillon, revolves around the dial annually, an indication of where we are within this alternative and ancient star calendar.
Differentiating this model of the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste from previous versions is its contemporary and arresting new design. At first glance, the dial has been simplified in terms of textures and indications, but it has in fact gained an additional dimension which is visible only in low light. The hour markers and constellations have been filled with Super-LumiNovaTM, evoking the glow of heavenly bodies on a clear night.
An elegant and contemporary case, part of the new generation of case design set by this January’s Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, encloses the 334-component calibre 946 of the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste. A complex blend of surface textures, from satin finish to microblasting and mirror polish, comes together in a 43mm white-gold case that perfectly complements the deep blue dial and the roseate hue of the constantly beating gold balance wheel.
In both its mechanical and aesthetic aspects, the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste takes us beyond the everyday. It is the rare timepiece that captures the rhythms of daily life in parallel with the movements of the universe.
An Affinity for the Extraordinary
Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed unparalleled expertise in a wide range of horological métiers since it was founded in Le Sentier in 1833. Today, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre practices no fewer than 180 watchmaking and watchrelated skills in its Vallée de Joux facility, many of them honed over decades and enhanced by in-house innovation.
The orbital flying tourbillon featured in the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste was first seen in the 2010 Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, a chiming masterwork that exemplifies the savoirfaire of Jaeger-LeCoultre and its role in expanding the field of high complication.
The flying tourbillon is uniquely combined with yet another area of mechanical watchmaking dominance for Jaeger-LeCoultre the sidereal indication of time, which appears in both masculine and feminine collections of La Grande Maison.
The lunar calendar in all its glory
Two years after it first appeared, Parmigiani Fleurier is updating the aesthetic of the Tonda 1950 Lune with a model featuring a slate dial and a second design with round diamonds on the bezel. Both showcase the poetry of the “lunar calendar” complication which illuminates their dial with a new layout. Behind this harmony, it is easy to forget the sheer mechanical complexity required to create an ultra-thin self-winding movement which comprises so many time indications. The Tonda 1950 Lune is both a technical and beautiful tour de force.
Tonda 1950 Lune with slate dial
With a rose gold case matched with a slate colour dial, this Tonda 1950 Lune is the epitome of the classic elegant watch. The lunar calendar, displaying the two hemispheres, is located at 10 o’clock instead of its previous position at 12 o’clock. This offset layout balances the date at 3 o’clock, the logo at 1 o’clock, and the small seconds window at 6 o’clock. All of the time indications are structured to create a pleasingly harmonious dial.
Tonda 1950 Lune with diamonds
On the other hand, the Tonda 1950 Lune with diamonds features a rose gold case, a mother of pearl dial, a beautiful complement to the light which plays across the precious stones – a combination which cannot fail to enthral. Additional touches adorn the piece, such as the moon at 10 o’clock which is set in the middle of a starry sky, and the gold outline around the date window at 4 o’clock. Lastly, the dial has been made smaller to accommodate a slightly broader bezel, allowing larger diamonds to be set within it, offering exceptional sparkle and brilliance, unlike any other.
The calibre PF708
The Tonda 1950 Lune owes its slender proportions to its calibre, the PF708, a mechanism combining precision and reliability with automatic winding thanks to its platinum micro-rotor. Its elements have been carefully arranged on the main plate to ensure the various time indications are harmoniously displayed. As is standard practice at Parmigiani Fleurier, and one of its hallmarks, it boasts hand-applied finishes and bevelled bridges. Its sublime structure is complemented by “Côtes de Genève” decoration.
Corum injects modernity and athleticism into its Admiral collection
The Admiral is one of the pillars of Corum’s heritage. Unveiled in 1960, five short years after the brand’s creation, it embodies the Swiss watchmaker’s idea of maritime-inspired watchmaking. Although it has always been loyal to its artistic fibre, it has never been afraid to set sail for distant shores. This year, it gives its Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph a facelift so as to modernise the collection while lending it an urban sportiness.
First introduced into the brand stable as the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Chronograph in 2013, the masculine-looking watch has always been a combination of power, elegance and performance with a huge dose of inspiration from the sailing world. The new Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph retains the essence of its sporty predecessor except for a few minor tweaks. The “60” hour marker at 12 o’clock has been replaced by the Corum key and brand logo, which have been slightly enlarged to give better brand visibility. Another benefit from this minor design modification is the introduction of more breathing space on the dial—the watch face of the previous incarnation felt busier and with this small change, the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph looks sleeker and more contemporary.
Corum also worked on the case shape of the watch. While it follows strictly to the case shape of the legendary Admiral watch, there is a marked difference—the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph features a more angular dodecagonal bezel compared to its predecessor, which boasted more rounded corners in a bid to create a more sophisticated aesthetic. For the new variant, Corum has also included two titanium inserts between the bezel and case so as to offer the option of playing with colours and materials—the possibility of mixing and matching is boundless and is something that the Swiss watchmaker will experiment with in the future. The result lends a more powerful and athletic presence on the wrist, which also makes the watch highly suitable for the rigours of everyday wear.
For the chronograph display, Corum stuck to the same tri-compax arrangement but what has changed is the dial design. The watch face comes with a “Grenadier fendu” motif, which is a unique pattern worked on by a team of experienced designers back at the Corum manufacture in La-Chaux-du-fonds. This also means that the dial is only unique to the brand. And instead of monochromatic dials as with the predecessor, the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph comes with black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. On the former are white sub-dials framed by either white or rose gold rings, while the latter features black sub-dials encircled by white or rose gold rings.
While the previous versions were offered with either the rubber strap or metal bracelet, the new Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph comes with a vulcanised rubber strap that features a triple folding clasp, which replaces the old tongue buckle. Corum will also offer the watch with either a titanium or rose gold bracelet.
The 12 nautical pennants, which are synonymous with the Admiral collection, remain on the flange as hour markers albeit without the bright colours so as to allow the watch to look sleek and modern. Powering the chronograph is the highly reliable Calibre CO 132, a self-winding movement that beats at 4 Hertz and boasts 42 hours of power reserve, 100m water resistance and decorative finishes specific to Corum. Turn the watch over to appreciate the finer details and finishing through the screwed-down open-worked caseback.
The Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph is available in 2 dial colours of black or white. The black dial version comes available in either 5N 18kt rose gold or titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment; while the white dial is available in titanium grade 5 or 5N 18kt rose gold. All versions come with a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, which makes reading time a cinch from any angle.
While the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph may not have undergone major modifications, it is important for the watchmaker to tweak an icon to suit modern tastes and offer product longevity to the end-consumers. With these changes, the chronograph will now speak to a wider audience that run the gamut from sailing enthusiasts to sports watch lovers to corporate eagles looking for fuss-free horological cred on the wrist.
For 60 years now the initials “DS” have been synonymous with reliability. With the introduction of Double Security in 1959, Certina set new standards. Since then the ultra-robust concept has been adapted many times over to meet the demands of contemporary life. To mark this anniversary the brand presents a timepiece combining the timeless style of the past with today’s most advanced features. The DS-1 Big Date 60th Anniversary presents a dark green dial enhanced by the classic elegance of a Milanese bracelet. It also features an automatic movement that sets new standards in terms of anti-magnetism, thanks to its innovative Ni- vachronTM balance spring. Traditions, after all, must be kept up.
60 Years of Double Security
Since its premiere in 1959 the DS Concept has had many opportunities to prove itself in the eyes of a worldwide audience. On the occasion of the first ascent of a Himalayan peak or while researching the depths of the ocean: Certina’s DS watches have faced and overcome the most extreme conditions. The secret of their Double Security (DS) lies in elaborate protective features. The extremely robust construction extends to the entire watch case – from the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and reinforced case back to the intricate system of seals – implemented in all models in the current Certina collection.
A worthy successor
The DS-1 Big Date 60th Anniversary is a modern interpretation of its adventurous predecessors. The do- med dial is presented with pride in the signature Certina green. The dégradé effect and sunburst finish enhance the intense hue and lend visual depth. A big date at 6 o’clock, finely facetted wedge-shaped indexes and long hands ensure clear legibility. The back of the 41 mm diameter case presents a commemorative 60th anniversary imprint. A stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet rounds off the elegant look. The watch is presented in special packaging.