Geneva-based brand ZRC pays homage to one of mankind’s greatest discoveries made thousands of years ago: bronze. A material appreciated for both its durability and its patina, it is now used in the case of the new Grands Fonds Vintage 1964 Spirit Bronze, a limited edition consisting of only 170 pieces.
Aprecious alloy of copper, which gives it its golden honey color, and tin, which makes it tough, bronze has many advantages, in particular a high resistance to corrosion and wear. These qualities were already well-known in 3000BC when mankind learned how to hone it and turn it into tools, weapons and other instruments. Introduced to the world of watchmaking less than a decade ago, this noble material now forms part of the collection of Geneva-based brand ZRC. Its rather pronounced gray-green patina, which develops over time, makes each timepiece unique.
This new watch, named 1964 Spirit Bronze and produced in only 170 pieces, draws inspiration from its predecessor, the famous Grands Fonds 300 developed as early as 1960 by ZRC, officially adopted by the French Navy in 1964 and re-issued in 2015. Perfectly identifiable thanks to its characteristic shape with full attachments and a crown at 6 o’clock, the 40.5 mm monobloc case, which is water resistant up to 300 m, is forged in bronze. Its bronze hue is picked out in subtle touches in the delicately marbled hand-patinaed matte black dial. It is also used in the body of the two wide skeletonized Magnum hour and minute hands and the lollipop style second hand as well as the hour circle formed of applied Arabic numerals and hour markers. The sandy beige shade of the luminous “Old Radium” material applied to the face of the 1964 Spirit Bronze gently contrasts with its black face crisscrossed with thin stripes and protected by a 4 mm curved sapphire crystal.
In terms of technical development, this timepiece has all the essential attributes which established ZRC’s reputation and which provide its water resistance. Firstly, the Crown Protection SystemTM guarantees the safety of the crown by preventing the strap with retractable lugs from being repositioned if the crown is not fully screwed down. Secondly, the ECSTM (Easy Clean System) ensures the inside of the unidirectional rotating bezel is clean by diluting and removing sea salt, which when crystallized can irreparably damage a diving watch.
Bringing to life the most important part of the time display, thanks to the trio of hands on the dial side, the bronze body houses the powerful ETA 2824-2 caliber. This highly dependable mechanical self-winding movement, found in most ZRC timepieces, vibrates at a standard frequency of 28,800 oscillations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 38 hours.
In the words of the company’s motto “la vie est Aventures”, life is full of adventures, and therefore the 1964 Spirit Bronze watch uses this ancient shimmering gold alloy to retrace the adventures of humanity: mankind’s journey of trial and error from the first technical discoveries, such as bronze, made thousands of years ago up to the beginnings, albeit several centuries later, of watchmaking. Whether you prefer to be in nature or on asphalt, just putting this on your wrist, with its aged leather strap, will unleash your inner explorer.
A unique chronograph-watch for the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy
“To create the first chronograph-watch, we invented a new concept. This involved putting the chronograph before the watch. That was something fundamentally different, making MEMORIS a truly unique, original work. Over 300 components were required for the movement, and more than 50 for the case alone” – Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO & Creative Director.
MEMORIS is the first chronograph in the history of watchmaking to be both fun and educational. It moves the entire chronograph function onto the dial side, following three guiding principles: putting the chronograph in the central position on the dial; fitting it with a column wheel featuring a conventional clutch; and adding a monopusher, just like on Louis Moinet’s Compteur de Tierces, the first chronograph in history (1816).
For its second consecutive appearance at the Only Watch charity event, Louis Moinet has created MEMORIS ONLY WATCH, a unique piece designed to support the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy.
MEMORIS ONLY WATCH features a spectacular, contemporary design, requiring 147 components for the chronograph and 155 components for the automatic movement. The originality of the piece resides in the separation of these two functions, thus allowing the chronograph to become a primary function, with its mechanism fully visible on the dial.
The column wheel is the heart and soul of this exceptional timepiece. It comprises two parts, indexed to one another: six columns on the top section, and a cog base on the lower section. This bottom cog ensures the perfect positioning of the column wheel and controls its rotation, interacting with the control hook spring and jumper. Between them, the six columns orchestrate the functions required for the chronograph to work, together with the minutes hammer, blocking lever, and clutch. With a single touch on the monopusher, a unique performance unfolds before your eyes.
The plate is made from aventurine, a deep blue material dotted with a host of inclusions to form an amazingly lifelike depiction of a star-studded sky. The hours and minutes are read off a blue lacquered guilloché dial, positioned at 6 o’clock.
The counters and flange are made from a translucent material, specially designed to make both the chronograph mechanism and the aventurine plate fully visible.
The case is made from polished titanium and bears the authentic Louis Moinet signature on the caseband. The entire back of the movement can be seen through a sapphire caseback, with “N°01/01” engraved around it. The watch is wound using an oscillating weight, decorated with a lacquered blue concentric Clou de Paris pattern and engraved with the words “ONLY WATCH”.
The Louisiana alligator strap and alligator lining are hand-sewn; the strap is fitted with a clasp bearing Louis Moinet’s fleur de lys emblem.
Meteorite Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture timepiece
Frederique Constant launches one unique edition of its successful Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture watch in 18K rose gold featuring a blue tint Meteorite skeleton dial with a heartbeat opening at 6 o’clock, offering its wearer a precious glance at the watch’s complex mechanics.
eThe Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture timepiece embodies the founders’ visionary quest to render Swiss watchmaking savoir-faire and innovation more accessible.
In 2004, after a few years of research and development, Frederique Constant introduced its first in-house patented manufacture movement: the award-winning Heart Beat Manufacture Calibre. Four years later, the brand unveiled its first in-house manufacture Tourbillon, one of the industry’s most intricate complication based on the Heart Beat Manufacture calibre.
Later in 2016, to celebrate the 10th year anniversary of the Frederique Constant manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, another grande complication was created: the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar watch, paving the way for a new generation of Swiss Made complicated watches at an accessible price tag and becoming a beacon of the brand’s know-how and expertise.
Aiming to provide ultimate precision, the in-house automatic FC-975 movement is equipped with a silicium escapement wheel and anchor. This specific material counters problems caused by the effect of the earth’s gravity when the movement is in a vertical position and is resistant to temperature change.
This grand complication also bears a smart weight balance wheel and a delicate and even Tourbillon cage. Frederique Constant patented its Tourbillon cage composed of 80 components all produced with a precision of 1-2 micron (0.001-0.002 mm) thanks to its CNC machines. In order to achieve the highest degree of precision, small weights are added in the Tourbillon’s cage to obtain a perfect balance. When the Tourbillon is constructed, the cage’s stability is slightly off, as the escapement wheel and anchor are decentred. Frederique Constant added a “smart screw” system on the outer edge of the Tourbillon to equalize the weight and deliver a perfect balance within the cage, resulting in a more stable amplitude and rate.
The new Tangente Sport
More than just a sporty makeover for a NOMOS classic: Beautiful and incredibly comfortable to wear, this neomatik watch with a bracelet is water-resistant to 1000 feet and excels in grueling stress tests.
A shining icon: Tangente Sport, or to use its full name, Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date is the first NOMOS watch designed especially with a bracelet. Tangente Sport and its sibling, the classic model Tangente a NOMOS bestseller for over 25 years that has often been dubbed a “Bauhaus watch” share a lot of qualities: the straightforward case, the striking typography, and being the embodiment of “form follows function.”
This NOMOS timepiece is making more of a splash than any previous one and not just because of its 42-millimeter diameter. The movement, the NOMOS neomatik date caliber (DUW 6101), is protected from shocks and water by its reinforced case, sealing, sapphire crystal glass back, and crown protection.
Thanks to the slender neomatik caliber, Tangente Sport can be considered a small but perfectly proportioned vault. The slender movement within saves ample space in height, meaning its extreme robust- ness is packed into a tight unit—as is its notable water resistance: 1000 feet, which is also noted on the dial.
Tangente Sport comes in two colorways: classic white silver-plated and marine black. The extra color details in the latter allude to the deep ocean. The amount of superluminova on the dial and hands has been increased in both varieties, which means it glows longer in the dark or underwater.
The strap on this new watch is also robust and long-lasting: The long sought-after NOMOS bracelet, consisting of 145 individual parts screwed together by hand, comes with the specially developed NOMOS deployant clasp. “Beside robustness and durability,
we also paid particular attention to comfort,” says Heike Ahrendt. “And we achieved this: The strap is fantastic to wear. We found this particularly important with a watch of this weight.” The bracelet wasn’t just added to this sporty classic, but rather developed along with the watch from the very beginning. This creates a very fresh and harmonious NOMOS look.
Tangente Sport will be available in selected retailers from May.
Should you require additional information, images, or interviews, please do not hesitate to contact us. We look forward to hearing from you.
L.U.C Flying T Twin – Chopard’s first flying tourbillon
With the new L.U.C Flying T Twin, Chopard is unveiling its first calibre equipped with a flying tourbillon. This technically and aesthetically sophisticated timepiece is distinguished by its remarkable charisma: a hand-guilloché gold dial, impeccable proportions and an ultra-thin case in ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold make it a truly exceptional creation within the L.U.C collection. This extremely refined 50-piece limited series designed for contemporary gentlemen connoisseurs of Fine Watchmaking is certified by the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
While this is a technical first, elegance is the predominant feature here. While the L.U.C Flying T Twin houses an exceptional movement, it stands out first and foremost for the finesse and refinement of its dial. With a case measuring just 7.2 mm, it is the ideal complement for a Sea Island cotton shirt and a deliberately mismatched baby cashmere jacket. While undeniably chic and elegant, this new model in the L.U.C collection does not confine itself to a purely formal approach, thanks to its colour contrasts mingling the warmth of rose gold with anthracite grey.
Nestling inside its ultra-thin 40 mm-diameter case in 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold is a new calibre developed specifically for this timepiece and rounding off the exhaustive range of complications featured in L.U.C models. It is regulated by a flying tourbillon as well as being automatic, a double first for Chopard. This chronometer-certified movement also features a stop-seconds device which is extremely rare on a tourbillon and enables perfectly accurate time-setting. Testifying to the fine craftsmanship lavished on the L.U.C Flying T Twin, it also bears the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
A freely spinning carriage
The flying tourbillon of the L.U.C Flying T Twin timepiece is highlighted through a large-diameter aperture at 6 o’clock providing a view into the movement. The physical and visual lightness of the flying tourbillon is used to create a sense of transparency and depth, directly contributing to the exceptional personality of L.U.C Flying T Twin.
This opening appears in the solid dial hand-guilloché executed by Chopard artisans. A snailed motif appears around the chapter ring, while the central medallion is adorned with a honeycomb motif introduced on the 2017 L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer edition. Symbolising a beehive, it is a nod to the first logo used by Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Finally, the ruthenium grey dial strikes a pleasing contrast with the rose gold hands and hour-markers.
L.U.C horological excellence
L.U.C Flying T Twin is the first Chopard timepiece to house a flying tourbillon. Entirely developed, produced and assembled in the L.U.C workshops, it is distinguished by the slenderness of its 7.2 mm case. A flying tourbillon is characterised by the absence of an upper bridge and is naturally slimmer due to being supported from underneath. Calibre 96.24-L is just 3.30 mm thick, the same size as the first Chopard Manufacture movement, Calibre 96.01-L, from which it has evolved. This horological feat in no way modifies any of its fundamental characteristics. Its diameter, its 65-hour power reserve – supplied by two stacked barrels according to Chopard’s patented Twin Technology – and its automatic winding via a 22-carat gold winding rotor are all in place. Nonetheless, the movement has no date so as to preserve the purity of the design and leave ample space for the tourbillon.
Gold is a L.U.C signature here, since the L.U.C Flying T Twin is crafted from a block of ethically certified “Fairmined” gold. It is responsibly sourced from artisanal mining cooperatives, where both the environment and miners are treated correctly, and to which Chopard pays a premium to be reinvested in community projects.
Chopard is currently the main global purchaser of “Fairmined” gold, which the Manufacture reserves for the production of its Grand Complication watch creations – such as the L.U.C Flying T Twin timepiece – as well as some of its Haute Joaillerie models. Since July 2018, the Maison has been using 100% Ethical gold for the production of all its watches and jewellery.
Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed at the Maison’s Geneva and Fleurier production sites. Movement development, finished product design, gold smelting, case stamping and machining, calibre components, traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: Chopard masters the full range of watch production operations and applies them to each and every L.U.C watch. These exceptional timepieces stemming from meticulous workmanship meet the aspirations of the modern-day gentleman, speaking to him without artifice or pretention, through a subtle blend of artisanal expertise, distinction and emotions.
Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept
H. Moser & Cie. is proud to join the fight against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy by participating for the third time in the Charity Auction organised by the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy through the Only Watch campaign. To mark the occasion, the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture has created a unique piece, in a poetic tribute to the lunar body: the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch. The dial on this model is made from Vantablack®, a super-black coating that holds the world record as the darkest man-made substance. It is composed of carbon nanotubes that are vertically aligned next to each other and is capable of absorbing 99.965% of light. Fascinating and mysterious, the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch reinterprets the moon phase in an understated and resolutely modern way, highlighting the beauty of the moon in an ode to its purity.
On November 9th, 2019, Geneva will host the eighth Only Watch charity auction, with proceeds donated to research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. H. Moser & Cie. wanted to support this campaign once more with the donation of a unique piece, the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch. Symbolising life, the perpetual and constantly renewed cycle of the lunar body in all its beauty and poetry, this creation pays tribute to the moon in a large window at 6 o’clock. Surrounding it is only space, as the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Only Watch is part of H. Moser & Cie.’s Concept series, without logo or indices. The dial, made from Vantablack®, accentuates this impression, giving the sensation of looking into a real black hole at its centre out of which the moon shines.
Within the 5N red gold case of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch beats the HMC 801 hand- wound Manufacture movement, equipped with the interchangeable Moser escapement. This calibre ensures the watch has a minimum 7-day power reserve, with an indicator on the movement side. The moon phase system is an extremely precise display that can be set to within a minute. A perpetual moon, the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch is one of the most precise moon phases available, with one day’s deviation every 1027 years.
The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch will be on display in Monaco during the Monaco Yacht Show, which takes place between September 25th and 28th, 2019. The Only Watch 2019 collection will then go on tour in Dubai, Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong, Taipei, and, finally, Geneva, from November 7th to 9th, 2019.
Maestro Corail watch
For the fourth consecutive year, Christophe Claret is proudly taking its place alongside the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM) and donating a timepiece to Only Watch for its eighth edition: Maestro Corail, a formidable timepiece by nature.
This altruistic momentum has driven Christophe Claret to take an authentic artistic approach in giving life to the Maestro Corail watch. Inspired by the Maestro Mamba watch that is part of the collection, this timepiece is unique, resulting from a blend of fine craftsmanship and aesthetic creativity.
Christophe Claret is a born provocateur, now venturing into the perilous wilds of the tropical forests by placing the voluptuous undulations of a coral snake at the heart of the Maestro watch. This brightly colored, swift and incomparably aggressive snake appears ready to strike anyone who comes within reach of its toxic venom. Wrapped around the movement, its undulating hand-engraved body creates a powerful contrast between the tangy blue and orange brilliancy of its scales and the matt black shade of the movement. Surging from the intricacies of the movement, between the hours and minutes hands, the MEMO function indicator and the sprung balance, the coral snake defies all challengers with its piercing eyes. A threatening and disturbing vision enveloping the horological mechanism with a dangerous aura of mystery.
The Maestro watch was a natural choice to accommodate the rippling coils of the coral snake. This watch appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome. A boldly contemporary model intended for trendsetters and influencers, this model offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale. It is also ideal because of its hand-wound movement, whose skillfully arranged components are displayed in all their glorious technical profusion, vividly reflecting that of a luxuriant forest.
The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner. Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.
The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.
A return to fundamentals
In terms of horological complications, the Maestro Corail once again illustrates the creative audacity cultivated by Christophe Claret. Witness the patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – and performing a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock. Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, the MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, an orange sapphire appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a blue sapphire on its side face at 6 o’clock, like the gem set at its top. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.
Whether it is a cue to pay a daily compliment to a loved one, to meditate for ten minutes a day, to do a good deed, to avoid a trap or avert a danger: there are any numbers of good reasons to activate the MEMO. But one thing is for sure: with death lurking in the black eyes of this snake that is as aggressive as it is venomous, and when the possibility of its mortal sting thus accompanies every minute, hour and day, the Maestro Corail provides a constant reminder of fate and the fragile nature of time.
With more than 40 million euros raised in seven editions, Only Watch – under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert of Monaco and at the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy – is organizing its eighth edition. The auction will be held for the third year running in Geneva, on Saturday November 9th 2019. Prior to that, from September 25th to 28th 2019, the Monaco Yacht Show will host the first stage of a promotional world tour of the collection. The funds collected will be entirely donated to scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and on Duchenne muscular dystrophy in particular.
AVANT-GARDE. IMMEDIATE. CONFIDENT.
There are moments when we want now to last forever. At other times, soon can’t come fast enough. The SOONOW timepiece by HYT has the answer. Its intriguing and captivating presentation of time’s flow is a constant reminder that every second counts. Because these moments are what add together to equal lives – ours.
NOW OR NEVER?
“Now or never” is so yesterday. HYT defines the present as an energizing cliffhanger, never as a precariously suspended moment of gratification or information on demand. The meaning of time is the content we give it, every single step of the way. SOONOW showcases this dynamic view of the now as a mobile pivotal point between the path traveled so far, and what could potentially lie ahead. Immediacy becomes an open door. The past empowers the present; then they build the future together. Always.
Visualizing this flow is a patented fluidic module that works in perfect harmony with an exclusive mechanical movement, in an apparently unconventional union. Two partially visible, multi-layer bellows inject energy into the system to initiate the representation of time’s transience via two contrasting liquids.
Documenting elapsed time is a see-through fluid that alludes to the clarity and wisdom that experience contributes. The inviting prospects of the immediate future are forecast by either bright green or blue liquid. This encourages us to make something of our time in these times. If we focus on time’s flow, now could well last forever.
SOONOW by HYT is a joint creation of art and science. Meticulous calculation meets a multi-dimensional depiction of the human skull, a creative inspiration that has extended from Aztec artifacts to contemporary painting and sculpture. A total of 313 18-karat gold pins make up the contoured masterpiece on this watch’s titanium dial. They simultaneously salute and wink at horological tradition and high-tech innovation. Their diametric opposite is perforation. Close to one thousand tiny holes punctuate the design of SOONOW. Mathematics and esthetics emerge as strong partners, spelling out the numbers of each hour via precision drilling, with the exact center of each word facilitating on-the-dot timing accuracy.
THE LUXURY OF UNIQUENESS
A watch with a mechanism capable of defying gravity is indisputably authentic in its drive for individuality. The design language of SOONOW is committed to using three-dimensionality and thought-provoking detail to add new perspectives to watchmaking – and time-telling. In its entirety, this watch is a celebration of the uniqueness that has come to define true luxury.
Since time lends itself to being contemplated from different individual viewpoints, HYT is determined its timepieces should do the same. Sitting fluidly on the wrist, the two SOONOW 25-strong limited editions adopt an architectural approach to depicting the passage of time with a droplet domed shape, sinuous lines and multi-layered, transparent structure.
The skull-shaped capillary, with its handcrafted bends and angles, represents an endless, rewarding quest for technical innovation. Hourly milestones appear to float above its outline. The skull’s facial expressions give their all to keep life’s transience front of mind. A pupil mirroring the power reserve level peers out from a disc sitting behind one eye socket. The other eye focuses on the passing of the watch’s briefest recorded unit, completing a full rotation in 60 seconds. Here the words “SOON” and “NOW” remind us that time is precious in a way that no iris could. If the dial’s protagonist could wink, he or she probably would. But the smile is on the wearer.
HOW SOON IS NOW?
The SOONOW story by HYT makes sense of time by allowing its flow to flourish. Only thoughts and actions separate now from soon – ours.
Having captivated the world with its soaring tourbillon and perfect symmetries over the last two years, the jellyfish-inspired HM7 Aquapod emerges from the depths for a new outing in 2019, this time in the most precious of metals and an arresting new shade – along with three-dimensional, “floating” hour and minute numerals.
Platinum, which sits at the apex of the hierarchy of noble watchmaking materials, makes its debut in HM7, its bright silvery-white hue an emphatic counterpoint to the vividly crimson unidirectional rotating bezel. Used for the first time in any MB&F creation, red is not a colour that immediately comes to mind when thinking of marine life — but it has a very particular significance when it comes to the jellyfish.
The deeper you go in the ocean, the less colour you see. Red is the first colour to disappear, being on the lowest end of the visible light spectrum and thus most easily absorbed by water. This is why you find a higher concentration of red sea creatures in the deepest waters — being red makes them almost invisible to predators. Deep-sea jellyfish often have red stomachs as a form of protective camouflage, as their transparent bodies would otherwise allow predators to spot them via their stomach contents.
HM7 Aquapod Platinum Red comes from the deepest recesses of the horological ocean, with free-floating numerical appendages and unprecedented transparency surrounding its beating heart: a 60-second flying tourbillon.
Unlike previous incarnations of Aquapod, which indicated the hours and minutes via rotating rings with transferred numerals, HM7 Platinum Red features three-dimensional numerals sculpted in titanium. The metal was specifically selected for its lightness, in order to have as little additional marginal load on the engine as possible. However, this mechanical advantage came at a cost, since titanium is exponentially denser and stronger (which is to say, harder to machine) than the aluminium that made up the time-indication rings on previous Aquapod versions.
The stems attaching the hour and minute numerals to their respective mounting rings are rendered black with a coating of DLC (diamond-like carbon), completing the ethereal floating effect that one associates with the sight of a jellyfish drifting with the ocean currents.
One of the most startling visual aspects of a jellyfish, almost alien in how far it is from the mammalian systems with which we are familiar, is its transparency. How can something so diaphanous and seemingly insubstantial be alive? HM7 Platinum Red homes in on this point, replacing the battle-axe tourbillon bridge of previous Aquapod versions with a clear sapphire component. The flying tourbillon of the HM7 engine is revealed like never before, highlighted by a halo of high-luminosity AGT.
Because, of course, HM7 Platinum Red is aglow with luminescence, just as any fascinating creature of the deep should be. Apart from the AGT ring surrounding the flying tourbillon, luminous material is found in the laser-engraved markings of the unidirectional rotating bezel and on the surface of the hour and minute numerals. These are untinted Super-LumiNova, which fluoresce white after exposure to light.
The self-winding, 391-component engine of HM7 Platinum Red was developed entirely in-house at MB&F. Fitted with a platinum case, bezel and buckle, HM7 Platinum Red will be made in a limited series of 25 pieces, each presented with three interchangeable straps (red, white and black) in aircraft-grade rubber.
HM7 AQUAPOD IN DETAIL
The idea for an aquatic watch originated from MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser’s memories of family beach holidays, which included an encounter with a jellyfish. While the encounter may have been minor, the seed it planted in Büsser’s brain for a three-dimensional timepiece powered by tentacles was anything but. And even though the concept for Horological Machine N°7 came relatively quickly, the development took many years.
Whereas the majority of watch movements are constructed on a lateral plane to be as flat as possible, the HM7 engine goes up, not out, with all of its components arranged vertically. The movement of HM7 was entirely developed in-house by MB&F.
From bottom to top, the winding rotor, mainspring barrel, hour and minute indications, and 60-second flying tourbillon are all concentrically mounted around the central axis. Energy travels from the rotor at the very bottom of the movement to the flying tourbillon at the very top via staggered gearing that allows mainspring torque to be transmitted from one level to the next.
This concentric architecture allows for the hours and minutes to be displayed around the periphery of the movement. However, the concurrent problem arose of how to meet the energy requirements of a large-diameter time-display mechanism without negatively affecting the chronometric performance of the engine. The answer was to develop extra-large ceramic ball bearings, to support the hour and minute displays and rotate with a very low friction coefficient. The time-indication rings are machined from titanium to minimise mass while maximising rigidity.
Hours and minutes are displayed by two rings bearing three-dimensional massive numerals machined in titanium, giving a floating appearance by the use of DLC-coated stem attachments.
A mix of mirror polish and sandblasting is used to optimise legibility and create visually distinct shapes that are large enough to easily read but still small enough to remain within the weight-bearing capabilities of the engine torque.
The surfaces of the numerals and markers are filled with untinted Super-LumiNova, making them highly legible even by night.
In order to create the illusion that the numerals are floating above the engine and rotating around the tourbillon by mysterious means, the numerals are hand-painted with protective varnish before the entire component is subjected to a treatment that coats the unvarnished surfaces in DLC (diamond-like carbon). With the support structure thus darkened, the hour and minute numerals seem to hover above the engine with no readily visible means of mechanical support.
The case of HM7 Aquapod is basically a three-dimensional sandwich comprising two hemispheres of high-domed sapphire crystal on either side of a metal case band. The unidirectional bezel floats outside the case proper, while dual crowns are located between the two structures: the one on the left is for winding the movement (if necessary) and the crown on the right is for setting the time. The large crowns are ergonomically designed for ease of use.
The bezel begins as a ring of sapphire crystal, which is then laser engraved from the underside with numerals and markers. The resulting cavities are then filled with Super-LumiNova. Following that, a bright red lacquer is applied to the underside of the sapphire-crystal ring. The sapphire crystal ring is then fixed onto the platinum bezel, to be attached to the case.
HM7 AQUAPOD TECHNICAL DETAILS
Limited edition: Platinum 950 with red sapphire crystal bezel (25 pieces)
Three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F
Central flying 60-second tourbillon, with sapphire balance bridge
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5 Hz / 18,000 bph
Three-dimensional winding rotor in titanium and platinum
Number of components: 391
Number of jewels: 35
Hours and minutes displayed by two grade 5 titanum discs whit flying numbers, turning on oversized ceramic central bearings
Unidirectional rotating bezel for elapsed time
Numerals, markers and segments along the winding rotor in Super-LumiNova
A round segment from AGT Ultra technology (Ambiant Glow Technology) surrounds the flying tourbillon
Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right
Material: Platinum 950
Dimensions: 53.8 mm x 21.3 mm
Number of components: 83
Water resistance: 50 m / 150 feet / 5 atm
Top and bottom sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & buckle
Rubber bracelet moulded in aircraft-grade Fluorocarbon FKM 70 Shore A elastomer, delivered in 3 colours, red, black and white, with folding buckle in platinum.
‘FRIENDS’ RESPONSIBLE FOR HM7 AQUAPOD
Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
R&D: Ruben Martinez and Simon Brette / MB&F
Movement development: Ruben Martinez / MB&F
Case: Damien FERNIER / LAB
Sapphire crystals: Sebal
Sapphire tourbillon bridge: M. Stoller / Novocristal
Precision turning of wheels, pinions and axes: Rodrigue Baume / DMP, Paul-André Tendon / BANDI, AZUREA, ATOKLAPA, GIMMEL ROUAGES
Springs: Alain Pellet / Elefil Swiss
Wheels: Patrice Parietti / MPS Micro Precision Systems
Titanium rotor: Marc Bolis / 2B8 SARL
Plates and bridges: Rodrigue Baume / HORLOFAB and Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP
Mystery winding rotor in titanium/platinum: Roderich Hess / Cendres et métaux
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C.-L. Rochat
Movement assembly: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre and Henri Porteboeuf / MB&F
In-house machining: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
Quality control: Cyril Fallet / MB&F
After-Sales Service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
Buckle: Dominique Mainier / G&F Châtelain / Roderich Hess / Cendres et métaux
Crowns: Cheval Frères SA
Anti-refection treatment for sapphire crystals: Jean-Michel Pellaton / BLOESCH
Dials (discs for hours – minutes): Emmanuel Desuzinges U-Man Horlogers, Aurora Amaral Moreira / Panova
Strap: Thierry Rognon / Valiance
Presentation box: ATS
Logistics and production: David Lamy, Isabel Ortega and Raphaël Buisine / MB&F
Marketing & Communication: Charris Yadigaroglou, Virginie Toral, Juliette Duru, Arnaud Légeret and Maëna Le Gat / MB&F
Sales: Thibault Verdonckt, Anna Rouveure and Jean-Marc Bories / MB&F
Graphic design: Samuel Pasquier / MB&F, Adrien Schulz and Gilles Bondallaz / Z+Z
Watch photography: Maarten van der Ende and Alex Teuscher
Portrait photography: Régis Golay / Federal
Webmasters: Stéphane Balet / Nord Magnétique, Victor Rodriguez and Mathias Muntz / Nimeo
Film: Marc-André Deschoux / MAD LUX
Texts: Suzanne Wong / REVOLUTION Switzerland
RJ Highlights its ARRAW Space Collection
RJ CEO and Creative Director Marco Tedeschi has embarked on a world tour in celebration of the independent Swiss watchmaker’s space-inspired watch collections, heading from Mexico and Las Vegas to Hong Kong. The latest leg of that tour was Tokyo on June 18, where ’s latest space-inspired watch collections, where Tedeschi was joined by Mrs. Chiaki Mukai, the first Japanese woman to travel into space. Mr. Tedeschi and Mrs. Mukai spoke to the intimate crowd about innovation, creativity, and discovery, a fitting introduction to the independent Swiss watchmaker’s new celestial timepieces: ARRAW 6919 and RJ Star Twist, just in time for the 50th anniversary of man’s first landing on the moon.
Currently the Vice President of the Tokyo University of Sciences, Mrs. Mukai appeared with RJ as a member of The Association of Space Explorers (ASE). This non-profit organization is composed of current and former astronauts who, like Mrs. Mukai, have completed at least one orbit of the earth over the course of their career. The partnership between RJ and the ASE began more than ten years ago forged on common grounds of innovation and creativity. Marco Tedeschi, CEO and Creative Director of RJ, and Michael Lopez-Alegría, President of the Association of Space Explorers, have joined forces on numerous occasions to speak about space, science, and the future of engineering. The ASE continues to support RJ in the brand’s efforts to promote space exploration through the art and science of contemporary watchmaking.
“RJ has always celebrated mankind’s achievements, and I can’t think of any greater accomplishment than the space exploration undertaken by the astronauts of The Association of Space Explorers. We are proud to partner with an organization that reflects our drive to innovate, create, and discover,” remarked RJ CEO and Creative Director Marco Tedeschi.
Following Tedeschi’s ascension to RJ CEO and Creative Director in 2018 and his subsequent establishment of the RJ Studio, the brand’s in-house engineering progressed in rapid time. In less than a year, RJ patented two new manufacture mechanisms which figure prominently in its latest astronomically-inspired watches. Those patents include a gem-set spinning bezel created for the Star Twist and a moon phase movement created for the ARRAW 6919, which displays a three-dimensional moon that rotates a full 360º. The new moon phase movement of the ARRAW 6919 marks a significant step forward in RJ’s evolution as the brand’s first in-house movement.
RJ’s engineering prowess and innovation also extends to material creativity. RJ was able to source material from the legendary Apollo 11 spacecraft for its ARRAW 6919 series, the only watches made with authentic spacecraft material that has gone to the moon and back. RJ encased the Apollo 11 spacecraft pieces within a super light, high-performance composite bezel created specifically for the collection. Available in 100 pieces each, the three ARRAW 6919 models were made to mark the 50th anniversary of man’s first moon landing, and the ASE provides a certificate of authenticity for each watch.
Whether crafted in titanium, ceramic, or red gold+, the 45 mm watches are readily identifiable as ARRAW models thanks to their iconic features, including the iconic rubber RJ Bumpers™ and RJ’s interchangeable strap system which allows the strap to be released with a simple ‘click’ by pushing simultaneously on the two lug screws.
The new Star Twist collection also marks a milestone for RJ as the brand’s first ladies’ collection. The Star Twist’s patented spinning bezels offer a unique “spin” on high horology for the modern woman. When in motion, the whirling gem-set bezels (adorned with sapphires, amethysts, or topaz) create a mesmerizing whirl of color that perfectly accentuates the depth and hue of the Star Twist’s painted dials.
The dial designs of these 39 mm models depict four real, distinct deep space entities: Titanium Blue Spiral Galaxy, Titanium Purple Spiral Galaxy, Titanium Glowing Eye Nebula, and Gold Blue Magellanic Cloud. Each Star Twist colorway is limited to only 100 pieces. In a world first, RJ has rendered these galaxies, nebulas, and clouds in four layers of paint and transparent coating over mother-of-pearl. The lustrous, multi-dimensional effect reinforces the immensity and chromatic range of a vast universe. The mesmerizing dials display central hours, minutes, and seconds, as well as a date aperture at 3 o’clock.
50 years after the first moon landing, RJ latest Space collection truly pays tribute to one of man’s most fascinating adventures.
For the first time, Roger Dubuis has created a timepiece offering a full carbon structure. From the case to the calibre via the bracelet, the Excalibur Spider Carbon3 is mainly made of multi-layer carbon. This mechanical prowess, playing with the many constraints of carbon in such thin dimensions, enables even further weight reduction. Light and comfortable, the Excalibur Spider Carbon3 clocks in at an astounding 81 grams. In a paradox of the kind so dear to Roger Dubuis’ complex heart, the Excalibur Spider Carbon3 also features another heavy complication and emblem of Roger Dubuis’ haute horlogerie mastery: the skeleton flying tourbillon. Taking this difficult sleight of the Maison’s expertise to the next level, the all-important upper cage of this not-to-be-missed opus is also made of carbon. Superlight and super comfortable while making its massive presence felt in no uncertain terms, this boutique exclusive is limited to just 28 pieces worldwide.
Because, no matter which way one looks at it, Roger Dubuis never does anything by halves, the Excalibur Spider Carbon3 is accompanied by an interchangeable rubberTech strap and crown and is Poinçon de Genève certified.
Deftly blending its British heritage with its Swiss watchmaking savoir-faire, Arnold & Son offers a new calibre to its Time Pyramid collection. With a skeletonized pyramid-shaped tourbillon seemingly floating between two sapphire crystals, the Time Pyramid Tourbillon is a true rendition of technical prowess and sleek elegance.
The Time Pyramid Tourbillon presents a cohesive combination of watchmaking feats organized in a pyramidal architecture. The skeletonised calibre A&S8615 pays tribute to the John Arnold’s regulators with their distinctive hours, minutes and seconds on different axes. The movement is built on three levels. The tourbillon and the two power reserve indicators are superposed by a sapphire crystal dial indicating the hours itself, crowned with a rhodium plated ring for the minutes. This exclusive construction offers a lively-look and three-dimensional face to the timepiece and, to further enhance the balance and symmetry, the crown is positioned at six o’clock.
The gear train runs vertically in a linear arrangement connecting the two barrels at six o’clock to the tourbillon escapement at twelve o’clock, giving the movement its pyramidal architecture. The bridges are designed so that all the wheels, the two mainspring barrels, the escapement and balance wheel are all visible from the dial side.
Besides the off-centred hours and minutes, seconds are on the tourbillon and the two power reserve indicators are on each side of the linear gear train. The blued steel hands indicating these power reserves artfully demonstrate how the right barrel takes over when the left barrel reaches a limited power and thus, to maintain an optimum and accurate functioning. The two serially set up barrels supply the in-house manufactured calibre with a total of 90-hour power reserve and provide a more regular force to the wheel train.
To meet with Arnold & Son finishing standards, the movement of the Time Pyramid Tourbillon is decorated with chamfered bridges, polished edges and Côtes de Genève while the main plate is satin-finished, the A&S three-spoke wheels chamfered, the edges polished, and the screws blued. The top bridge and cage plate of the tourbillon are circular satin-finished, chamfered and mirror-polished by hand.
The Time Pyramid Tourbillon is housed in a 44.6 mm diameter 18-karat red gold or stainless steel case and adorned with a hand-stitched alligator strap.
About the name
The Time Pyramid is inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over two hundred years ago and by antique British skeleton clocks with their recognizable vertical construction and cone-shaped chain and fusee system.