PRIMUS Desert Pilot Dark Hanhart presents the perfect companion for adventurers who seek their balance off the beaten paths. The new chronograph with a black DLC case is limited to 100 pieces. The design is based on the award winning PRIMUS Desert Pilot and comes in a set with a high quality knife. The robust chronograph combines classic Hanhart features with modern, distinctive design.
The PRIMUS Desert Pilot Dark combines Hanhart’s 130-year tradition with modern elements: As unmistakable Hanhart trademarks, this chronograph features a red pusher and a fluted bezel with a red marking. The sand-colored dial is covered by a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. The DLC-coated stainless steel case with a screw-down case back made of sapphire crystal provides a clear view of the movement and the skeletonized rotor and makes the precision of the timepiece literally visible.
The sporty look of the PRIMUS Desert Pilot Dark is completed by a robust textile strap with a practical ergonomic folding clasp made of DLC-coated stainless steel. The flexible lugs offer the highest wearing comfort for daily use, as they adapt perfectly to the wrist circumference. The dominant Arabic twelve and the skeletonized hands inspire with their clear design and excellent legibility.
The new PRIMUS Desert Pilot Dark is delivered together with the high-quality and reliable Vulkanus Hornet utility knife incl. belt pouch. The knife can be operated with one hand and is equally suitable for left- and right-handers. The 8 cm long blade made of D2 steel with a hard-ness of up to 61 HRC and the ceramic ball bearing guarantee durability and low maintenance, even under tough operating conditions. The fully dismountable knife was developed together with the knifemaker Harald Stahlegger, former president of the Austrian Knifemakers and in the scene better known as Aquarius.
The PRIMUS Desert Pilot Dark can be ordered now for 3090 euros including 19% VAT and will be delivered starting from the end of May.
Past meets 2021. Rado’s iconic Captain Cook is unveiled for the first time in the Master of Materials’ preferred material: High-Tech Ceramic.
2021: a year of hope and reinvention is the time chosen to reveal a timepiece without precedent, and that is here to revolutionise. The Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is the culmination of many years of research and development together with the history and tradition of the Rado Captain Cook.
The further development of the Captain Cook collection in high-tech ceramic is Rado’s DNA in its purest form. It features some of the brand’s most stellar achievements such as Rado’s innovative high-tech ceramic monobloc case construction, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic high-tech ceramic, powered by the premium Rado calibre R734 featuring a Nivachron™ hairspring. The innovative Nivachron™ hairspring provides an advantage in everyday life by protecting the timepiece from magnetic fields.
The Captain Cook Ceramic is presented for the first time in a case size of 43mm, and in four versions. A first version in black high-tech ceramic case and bracelet with a hardened stainless steel turning bezel and black high-tech ceramic insert. A second model holds this same case and dial but is offered with a rubber strap for those who prefer a more casual look. A third version is offered similarly in black high-tech ceramic case and bracelet but with contrasting rose gold coloured PVD coated stainless steel turning bezel, and black high-tech ceramic insert. Followed by the fourth model, a highly distinct plasma high-tech ceramic case and bracelet, with hardened stainless steel bezel, and blue high-tech ceramic insert.
All the references are powered by the Rado calibre R734 characterised by a strong 80 hours power reserve, and up to 30 bar (300m) water resistance. The dial and case back are stunningly crafted in black tinted sapphire crystal allowing its wearer to explore and admire the inner workings of the skeletonised movement in a subtle manner, whilst still proving to be legible. As the triangle on the bezel, the indexes, and the classic Captain Cook chunky arrow hands on the dial are filled with white Super-LumiNova® providing clear visibility in the dark. This magnificent sapphire dial is also home to the iconic Rado rotating anchor at 12 o’clock, and is protected by a chevé box sapphire crystal.
The new Captain Cook Ceramic is a mechanical masterpiece that needs to be felt to appreciate its lightness and wearer comfort besides its stunning looks. The Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is Rado’s DNA at its fullest. Welcome aboard.
With its new model, Moritz Grossmann places the spotlight on the second as a unit of time, fusing sporty elegance in stainless steel with a radiant finish and luminescent effect in the dark.
More than five millennia ago, people in the Near East started to take an interest in measuring time. Priests analysed the cycle of the moon and planets and predicted the most favourable time to cultivate crops. Trade and warehouse management gave rise not only to writing but also to the art of arithmetic.
The development of the sciences and the flourishing of cities and trade meant that people had an increasing need for much more precise ways of measuring time. And so over the course of the 13th century, the mechanical clock was developed in Europe. The individual planning of time was born.
Since the middle of the 20th century, the thought of our modern life without the accuracy of time down to the second and fractions thereof has become inconceivable today.
With its new model CENTRAL SECOND, Moritz Grossmann pays tribute to the social and technological significance of this unit of time. While conventionally the small second hand is placed in the six o’clock position in the bottom third of the dial on Grossmann watches, here a large-scale second hand is positioned in the centre of the highly refined dial.
CENTRAL SECOND combines a case made from polished steel with a charmingly elegant feel and superb functionality. Schönstes deutsches Handwerk made in Germany that unites the highest degree of craftsmanship with a mechanism that simply functions perfectly.
In doing so, the manufactory once again recalls the spirit of its namesake and grand master of the Glashütte art of watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann. In his treatise written back in the 19th century, the exceptional watchmaker and founder of the German School of Watchmaking (1878) described how to construct a simple but mechanically perfect watch.
Blue dial with HyCeram Luminex hands
CENTRAL SECOND is offered in a non-limited edition comprising a blue dial embellished with high-quality sunray finish. The type of finish used here lends the dial a luminous blue tone that makes it glow in various shades depending on the light present. The intricate finish is based on fine strokes that are barely perceptible to the human eye, but radiate out from the middle of the dial, making them reminiscent of delicate rays of sunshine.
A striking contrast to this is provided by the numerals in a rich white and the polished steel hands in white.
Each extremely limited-edition set is composed of a Death Star™- inspired Tourbillon watch and an authentic kyber crystal movie prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, delivered in an outstanding Imperial kyber crystal container.
Kross Studio has achieved a stunning and significant milestone within just months of the company’s official launch, collaborating with Lucasfilm on this brand-new Star Wars™-inspired set.
The release pays tribute to the iconic Star Wars space saga, creating a 10-piece series of Death Star-inspired Ultimate Collector Sets, for those who savor Star Wars history as much as high-end design objects. Crafted to the finest standards of Swiss design and engineering, this set is the perfect companion for collectors.
Own a piece of Cinematic History
Kross Studio brings the emblematic power of the Death Star to life as the imposing design details of the mobile space station and planet-destroying superweapon is featured as the cornerstone of this new collection.
Each collectible set contains an official screen-used kyber crystal – the power source of the Death Star’s superlaser – as featured in Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. This marks the first time that authentic kyber crystal props will be released to the public as part of Kross Studio ultimate collector set and are an opportunity for die-hard fans to own a piece of the fascinating Star Wars galaxy.
An eminent design object with an immersive visual experience
The powerful and precious nature of the crystals required them to be stored in armored crates for transport. Faithful to the film storytelling, Kross Studio conceived an official reproduction of those containers, made of wood and aluminum.
More than 700 parts were necessary to produce each container, scaled to half the original film dimensions of 3.94 feet long (1.20 meters). Fully hand-assembled and hand-painted, the containers embody the iconic saga story down to the smallest detail. Every aspect of these substantial art objects, like fine sculptures, have been thoroughly conceptualized and executed with immersive details that take the viewer into the Star Wars galaxy, from the electronic control panel to the backlit manifest panel inscribed in the Aurebesh language of the Galactic Empire.
Inside, the container is divided into nine storage units. Three interior sections secure three removable capsules, containing: the Death Star Tourbillon watch, three accompanying timepiece straps sets, and the genuine movie prop kyber crystal, as featured in the film Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. The other 6 free storage spaces within the crate offer ample storage space for collectors to house their personal Star Wars collectibles and ephemera, secured within a removable top cover.
Inspired by the Death Star legacy
Kross Studio took up the challenge of the central tourbillon – a mechanical complication honoring the prominent Death Star. Featured in a 45 mm black DLC coated grade 5 titanium case, the captivating Death Star-inspired Tourbillon cage makes one revolution per minute. On the surface of the Death Star-inspired Tourbillon, a green superlaser cannon stands reminiscent of the space station’s kyber crystal enabled power.
The Death Star-inspired Tourbillon watch itself tells us a great story of passion, craftsmanship and advanced technology. Notable technical innovations are highlighted such as the house-developed manual-winding mechanical movement that delivers a robust 5-day power reserve. The hands have been affixed to a peripheral display that orbits 360 degrees around the tourbillon. A traditional crown system has been replaced by an ingenious, inset push-button system. Kross Studio developed a D-ring shaped crown on the case back for winding the watch, stowed out of sight to help maintain the timepiece’s sleek, space-age styling. These clean lines are also preserved by cleverly hiding quick-release buttons on the underside of the case. This practical feature will doubtless be welcomed by collectors, allowing a quick change of the straps from the included calfskin leather strap to either of the two other included rubber straps.
The Grand Central is a spectacular new collection, where the Tourbillon is in the spotlight, placed at the center of the timepiece. One of the complexities of the collection, lies in the fact that we had to totally rethink the watch in order to move the Tourbillon from its original position at 6 o’clock to the center of the watch. In addition, Franck Muller designers and watchmakers had to find an innovative way to place the hour and second hands around the Tourbillon cage, highlighting the beauty of the piece.
The Triple Axis Tourbillon
The triple axis tourbillon of the new Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton corrects the force of gravity in all positions. This complex system of carriages is a technical marvel and is the result of one of the most complex creations in Haute Horlogerie. Featuring a breathtaking skeleton movement, this timepiece stylishly reveals black openworked bridges that allow to observe one of the most beautiful mechanism in all of Horlogerie.
Sailing in a sporty direction with its automobile-inspired lines, the Vanguard Racing collection calls in for pure and stylish engine-turned aesthetics. With its harmonious contours, flawless finesse and impeccably balanced proportions, the lines and curves have been worked to brew elegance along with its sporty characteristics.
The Vanguard Crazy Hours calls in for youthful and futuristic aesthetics. An aesthetic that lives up to the eccentricity of the complication, with the iconic numbers of the Vanguard collection in blue, red, green or orange.
The New GMT Sport – the Art of the Essential
The GMT Sport emerges in a bold new character of titanium and blue. More ergonomic and contemporary than ever, this GMT Sport is the very first Greubel Forsey creation with a completely integrated metal bracelet. With a new bezel and new finishes, this limited edition is an exciting evolution that just 33 collectors will have the opportunity to discover first hand.
A Play of Light and Shade
Taking centre stage for the first time on the GMT Sport, the distinctive Greubel Forsey bezel now subtly relieved of the relief engraved key values, takes on a completely new profile. With hand-finished horizontal straight-graining on top and the hand-polished contour and flanks taking on a soft yet striking new form, the bezel is beautifully refined, opening up the dial to attract even greater focus to the essential – the Greubel Forsey movement and hand-finishing, a characteristic of every timepiece.
This new finish highlights the unique profile of the GMT Sport’s bezel, an ellipse that gently curves at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock to hug the contours of the wrist – a passion for perfect ergonomics that reaffirms the contemporary, everyday style of this exclusive timepiece.
The First Metal Bracelet in the History of Greubel Forsey
This ergonomic design is further pursued in the new bracelet of this GMT Sport – the first ever metal bracelet on a Greubel Forsey creation. Entirely conceived in the Atelier and specifically for this timepiece, it is fully integrated into the case of the GMT Sport and profiled to seamlessly follow the elliptical shape of its case and bezel. Faithful to its tradition, Greubel Forsey has devoted particular attention to finishing with three distinct styles distributed over both the lateral and central links: straight graining, frosting and hand-polished bevelling.
For example, frosting was chosen to echo the finish of the lugs, underlining the aesthetic continuity between the case and bracelet. The latter, made of Grade 5 titanium, is lightweight, robust and very strong. It features a fine adjustment system, providing the valuable millimetres of play to allow the wearer to choose between a loose and casual or a snug, wrist-hugging fit.
A Renewed Spirit
As for the movement, this new GMT Sport is the first in a unified colour: the mainplate, bridges, globe, second time zone dial and 24-second indicator ring of the Tourbillon 24 Seconds at 1 o’clock are all in the same blue finish. The central suspended arched bridge as well as the tourbillon bridge are openworked to highlight the three dimensional movement architecture of its intense blue finish.
The choice on the one hand of a deep, matte blue and on the other, the polished components in titanium (bridges, globe) or steel (hands, power reserve) accentuate the strong contrasts within the movement itself and ensure perfect legibility. Thanks to its 42mm case diameter (45mm on the bezel), the expression of the movement’s technicality is perfectly harmonious with the intuitive central hours and minutes display, second time zone at 10 o’clock, power reserve at 3 o’clock and rotating terrestrial globe at 8 o’clock.
A Highly Technical Movement
With this new livery, more essential and refined than ever, Greubel Forsey offers a new means of expression to two of their signature creations. Their 3rd invention, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes is positioned between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock. With its cage inclined at a 25° angle and completing a full rotation in 24 seconds, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes provides superior chronometric performance – in addition to the truly unique visual effect.
Then, the terrestrial globe placed between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock. More than any other, it embodies the three-dimensional time display championed by Greubel Forsey. Thanks to this invention which executes a complete rotation in 24 hours, universal time can be read easily, quickly and intuitively.
Seen from above the North Pole, a ring with 24- hour markings allows the local time to be read for all longitudes while also acting as a day/night indication. On the caseback side, a disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 rings allows the wearer to read UTC Universal and Summer Time for 24 cities in 24 major time zones. It also distinguishes those time zones applying summer time (on a light background) from those who don’t (on a dark background).
The new GMT Sport – a bold aesthetic choice from the Atelier, signed Greubel Forsey.
The unique piece for Watches & Wonders Shanghai offers a differentiated ability to consistently maintain a state of resonance represents nothing less than a redefinition of the practical limits for marine chronometer precision in a wristwatch.
In general, Armin Strom carefully maintains a pared-down approach that keeps the brand’s style of watchmaking focused on its essence. How concentrated that style may be, this special-edition head further in that direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance. The special blue dial and the matt hand decorated finish are highlighting the swiss German style of this timepiece.
The dial offers a “Kari Voutilainen hand Guilloché” subdial for time displays: Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in white with steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a baton-shaped hand and a simple track. The Sky blue colored handmade Guilloché dial from Kari Voutilainen has a special lack finishing (Email à froid) in order to reinforce the unique look of the dial. The Bridges are decorated with succinct, eye-catching côtes de Genève, applied for the first time in straight lines. It’s absolutely spectacular movement finishing is often overlooked as the hypnotic pulsation of its clutch spring and the synchronized motion of its two balance wheels provide a mesmerizing distraction that invariably captures most of the attention.
Technology in Service to Chronometry
The reason for this watch’s improved chronometry can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions this watch can focus fully on providing the time in marine chronometer precision. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.
“My primary objective was to improve chronometric precision via the consistent maintenance of a resonance state. But that consistency was also a prerequisite to sustain a kinetic spectacle on the dial side of our watch. With a great deal of time and effort, our technical and aesthetic ambitions were both ultimately achieved.” – Claude Greisler, Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker
The outward design of the Pure Resonance perfectly reflects the purity of Caliber ARF16. It is housed in a slim 42 mm white gold case with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel, though the characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains – an homage to the ability of Armin Strom to customize any of its watches as well as to founder Armin Strom, who offered this space to clients for personal engraving (and it can still be used for that).
This special edition of the Pure Resonance looks and acts just like a “normal” three-handed watch. And this remains in line with the philosophy of Armin Strom as a brand: just good, proprietary mechanics presented in an impeccably finished and interesting way. The Pure Resonance Sky Blue is limited to 3 pieces.
Only 20 examples of the new Régulateur Squelette movement will be produced and housed in a choice of round or octagonal cases. The calibre FB-T.FC-RS with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission thus heralds a new approach for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, enabling collectors to appreciate the rarity of precision mechanics while choosing the case design that suits them best.
It would have been inconceivable, almost three centuries ago, for someone to acquire a pocket watch or clock not entirely made to match one’s personal taste. Over time, this consideration gradually ebbed away, replaced by standardisation as watches became widely distributed products. Nonetheless, this approach, which enabled watchmaking to flourish in an unprecedented way, does not fully correspond to the spirit of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
A Limited-Edition Movement
In a bid to strengthen ties with the original inspiration of its founder, Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 – 1807), the Manufacture bearing his name is introducing an evolved version of its business model: as of now, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud will communicate the total number of units for each inhouse-made calibre.
“Our primary objective is to safeguard collectors’ interests,” explains Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “By explicitly specifying a pre-determined number of movements, we engage in a fully transparent procedure. Collectors are as sensitive to the rarity of their timepiece as they are to that of the calibre powering it. By communicating about both, we are placing watch movements and customers firmly front and centre, thus preserving the integrity of their collection.”
This new mindset is embodied by a first creation: the Régulateur Squelette FB RS, a new model based on the FB-T.FC-RS calibre. For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has announced that the production of this movement will be strictly limited to 20 in all.
This approach reinforces the determination expressed from the very beginning of the Manufacture: to produce only an extremely limited number of timepieces each year. In view of the chronometric and aesthetic requirements, as well as the inevitably lengthy development time inherent to each new creation, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is thus reaffirming its resolve to achieve absolute excellence, a goal necessarily implying limited production.
The First Skeleton Movement
The FB-T.FC-RS calibre is the first skeleton movement produced by the Manufacture. This regulator-type chronometer movement with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission is the result of comprehensive technical and aesthetic development and is inspired by Marine Clock No. 8, produced by the master-watchmaker in Paris in 1768. Through the opening visible at 2 o’clock, a large-diameter sapphire disc indicates the hours, while minutes are read off on the dial offset to 12 o’clock. The seconds are displayed on a flat sapphire inner bezel ring surrounding the dial.
The bridges have been entirely designed to ensure an admirable view of the choreography performed by the imposing tourbillon carriage appearing on the dial side. Many components feature black PVD coating, alternating with polished, matt, vertical satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes. The tourbillon bridge visible on the dial side is in itself a tour de force, with its mirror-polished and chamfered surfaces, polished flanks, and sandblasted underside. The decoration alone of each movement thus requires dozens of different craftsmanship skills. Nearly a year of trials was needed to achieve this level of finishing, enabling the complexity of this new movement on the dial side to be fully admired for the first time.
The FB-T.FC-RS calibre features a pillar-type structure in which the barrel and the reverse fusee are both suspended and patented. This fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers. It ensures the distribution of energy by delivering «constant force» to the tourbillon with its direct-drive seconds. This novel construction is the third patent to be filed.
Finally, the fourth patent applies to the power reserve indicator. Visible on the case-back side, a suspended truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. A feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel reflects the state of wind of the barrel thanks to its position on the cone. It transmits the information to the power-reserve hand on the dial side by means of flat levers and a spiral spring.
Like all Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud movements, the FB-T.FC-RS calibre is officially chronometer-certified and was submitted to the Fleuritest during its development phase.
One Movement, Two Cases
The choice of watch exterior – from among the various combinations offered by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – will be left to the collector. Henceforth, the Manufacture will be offering two variations: the FB 1RS.6 with an octagonal case in carburised stainless steel and the FB 2RS.2 with a round case in 18-carat rose gold. This carburised steel has had its molecular structure reinforced, making its surface (1200 Vickers) extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. The gold is of certified ethical origin.
This approach is in line with the quality-driven vision adopted since the start of the Manufacture in 2015. The two successive awards at the 2019 and 2020 editions of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the «Chronometry» category have demonstrated the reliability and precision of its timepieces. Through this new initiative, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud thus confirms its desire to exceed collectors’ expectations by offering the unprecedented possibility of choosing the case shape.
In the year 2000 Chronoswiss unveiled the world’s first serially produced regulator tourbillon. More than 20 years after this horological achievement, the Open Gear Tourbillon is launched – a modern mechanical timekeeper with a unique regulator set-up, electric blue case and a hypnotising handmade guilloché.
Traditionally placed at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is a perfect ingredient to incorporate in the Chronoswiss design lexicon. “Nobody else makes a tourbillon like ours, with a regulator set-up, open gears and handmade guilloché,” says Maik Panziera, Head of Design at Chronoswiss, about the vertical line-up of the Open Gear Tourbillon. “This half-skeletonised flying tourbillon is completely designed in-house, and it is exclusive to Chronoswiss watches,” he continues. The tourbillon Chronoswiss manufactured more than 20 years ago – Régulateur à Tourbillon – also had a guilloché dial. But since then the company has taken one small step for man but one giant leap for an independent watchmaker: now Chronoswiss unveils the the C.303 – its own half-skeletonised tourbillon movement, and the guilloché is added by hand in its atelier in Lucerne.
With the Open Gear Tourbillon the ‘blue hour’ gets a whole new meaning. Using 10 different shades of the colour historically symbolising loyalty, strength, wisdom and trust, the calm display of the watch is contrasted especially by the energetic, almost aggressively electric blue CVD coating on the 17-part, stainless steel case. “We use a light blue for the dial, whereas the bridges have a dark blue coating,” says Panziera. The Trigono-shaped hands are blue lacquered, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips. For the hour and five-minute indexes, generous amounts of blue-hued lume are combined with zirconium oxide into solid bricks and pillars that shine through the night.
The tourbillon may have roots stretching back to the end of the 18th century, but the Open Gear Tourbillon has everything you should expect from a modern mechanical timepiece. The watch dial is an elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: the bottom level is hand-guilloched, whereas the upper level features skeletonised train wheel bridges and a funnel-like construction for the hour display. Other design details include all particular signifiers of a Chronoswiss watch: knurled bezel, onion crown and the hornback crocodile strap held in place with the patented Autobloc system. There is also a not-to-be-seen special engraving on the reverse side of the dial – for a unique melding of modern mechanical watchmaking and heritage, since the idea of a secret signature was in vogue around two centuries ago when the tourbillon was invented.
To this day the tourbillon is one of the most advanced feats of horology. To place the whole escapement in a miniature cage that makes a full revolution every 60 seconds counteracts the Herculean force of gravity and its detrimental effect on precision. To construct, assemble and fine-tune a tourbillon is, understandably, extremely time-consuming. “It was twenty years ago – and even more so today, since we now have our own movement and execute the guilloché by hand in our atelier in Lucerne,” said Maik Panziera.
The Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon is limited to 15 pieces.